Finally started working on my M38

[ocwd]

Thanks Ryan. These are original M series brackets. Who knows what year. I wire wheeled them then primer and paint. Now I just need to wire wheel the paint off the ends. I'll check out MV spares. Although, I have amassed many brackets and junk over the last few years. I probably have a good share of what I need to complete this project.

[53a1]

Hey Dave.

Missed your quetion from back a ways...

I used Rust-Oleum High Heat 2000 deg Flat Aluminum 248904 on the muffler. It's looks pretty good but a little fake. I would experiment with maybe a semi gloss AL and see if it looks better than mine.

I guess you could go with OD but it may not hold up to the heat. OD is probably how they came originally but I'm not sure.

I didn't use anything on the down pipe because MWM uses a AL plating and the center pipe I got from you I just left alone because it looked galvanized.
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'53 M38A1 X2

[ocwd]

I am getting ready to start working on my tub and I am thinking of buying a sandblasting kit from Harbor Freight. Has anyone had experience using these Harbor Freight kits? If so, what type of sand did you use? Will play sand work? Is it best to buy special sandblasting sand? I've read that sandblasting can warp body panels if care is not taken. Has anyone used soda blasting? Looks like Harbor Freight also has media blasting kits? I am guessing that this kit will work with soda. I have two body tubs to blast. I will also check prices to have my tub professionally sandblasted.

[Rick_L]

I think you can get a nasty disease from inhaling silica dust.

[wesk]

The Made in China stuff will work for small tasks. Tub, body panels and frames requires a quality set-up and a LOT OF AIR. This means a large 175PSI industrial style air compressor. Two stages work better.

Sand works ok on frames and heavy steel or cast iron parts. The tubs are right on the fence between sand and glass beads or soda.

Unless you intend to make this a new career choice (frame off restos) you are looking at a serious investment to get the job done right. It is usually very cost effective for hobbyist to farm the blasting work out.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[RICKG]

I ended up with Harbor Frt #30725. The hose from the hopper
to the gun is chinas finest rubber and will begin to fall apart
soon after you bring it home. Make sure if you get one of these
available kits that the ceramic nozzles are readily available-
the week after i got my kit i went back to get more nozzles and
was told my model was obsolete and could only get parts
online and had to pay shipping costs. Be sure your compressor is
rated for the task or you'll waste hours trying to get 'er done.
Use fine silica sand and the best hood and resperatory masks
you can find-dont want to breath any of that crap-free silica
causes silicosis and the lead in your old paint will kill ya-so
will Jack Daniels but that's another thread..
BOTTOM LINE- my experience anyway, H-F tools are basicly
single use throw away stuff but this unit will take care of small
parts. You'll just waste time trying to clean anything but small
parts. For my tub, frame and etc i hired a pro with a truck mount unit
and he came highly recommended from some hot-rod guys i know. Was
done in an afternoon and charged about 400 bucks. No warping-he
knew what he was doing. Sorry for the long reply
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keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

[53a1]

Hey Dave.

I tried the blast pot from HF and it worked but was way to messy for home use so I stopped and took it to a shop. Didn't work well with my 5hp compressor. If you have a couple acres and can setup a blast area in the back 40 that's another story but don't use in your driveway or back yard.

I've been VERY happy with the upright blast cabinet from HF. No dust or mess and it works with 5hp compressor but only works for small parts.

If your doing pot blasting you should to wear a respirator but then again we aren't doing this for a living. If you are using the cabinet with a vacuum hooked up you don't have to worry. Keep it away from the kids play areas.
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'53 M38A1 X2

[SledDog]

I bought the HF 15lbs Soda Blaster (item #66742) and it works very well removing paint, grime and other junk on small parts. However, it does not remove rust and would not work well on tub or frame.

Tends to clog and I need to add a second moisture filter.
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-Steve
'52 M38 MC68149

[BullRun]

There are lots of blasting media available including dry ice pellets through industrial blasters that work really well that can't be done at home.

I use an industrial blasting outfit that does a jeep chassis for about $185. A whole jeep is about $350-$450. About a 1 week turnaround.

Save your lungs.

[ocwd]

Still considering my options. I have very little money at the moment. I'll probably wait a few more months.

Thanks for the information.

[ocwd]

I still haven't decided what I am going to do regarding sandblasting my tub. Until then, there is plenty of work to do. I moved my tub into the garage and started removing footman loops and brackets. I also scrapped some of the tar that the previous owner had applied to the wheel houses and under the gas tank.

Lots of bondo on the drivers side. Most of the bondo is between the filler neck hole and the front of the Jeep.

Looks like they tried to smooth out the filler neck area.

Drivers rear corner looks very solid. Don't see much bondo there but we'll see after sandblasting.

Drivers wheel house front and under gas tank in rough condition. Both wheel houses need to be replaced in the front. The previous owner riveted a panel in under the gas tank.

Passenger side looks decent but there is some bondo there too.

Passenger crear corner messed up. Looks like they backed into something. The corner looks good from 10 feet but I thing there is about 1/2" of filler on the radius. It appears to be some sort of epoxy.


The tops and sides of the wheel houses look pretty good. They could use a bit of straightening though.
Here is a shot of the front of the drivers side wheel house.

Passenger side wheel house front.

The donor tub. Well worth the $250 that I paid for it.

[/list]

[53a1]

Looks like your ready to dive into it. I'd put some wheels under those saw horses so you can roll the tub in and out of the garage. Fumes and dust can get a little nasty. If you decide to do this you can roll it onto a tarp and catch the crap so your driveway doesn't get messed up. I would start hammering out dented areas and welding shut unwanted holes while you are looking for a sand blaster. You might have to remove the tar-like coatings before sand blasting so may as well start that.

I like the A1 also.
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'53 M38A1 X2

[DJ]

Personally,I would never blast a tub myself again. I blasted mine ,took the better part of a summer working 3or 4 hours at a time,and around 30, 100lb bags of sand at $8.00 a bag. To put it in perspective,it is like running a pencil eraser over your entire tub, thats about the amount of paint that is removed at the tip of the gun. Plus you have to buy and then dispose of 3000 lbs of sand. You can try and reuse the sand,but sifting out the chunks is a PIA. My entire frame cost 125.00 to have professionaly blasted.

[ocwd]

I still need to get sand blasting costs. I will probably have a professional company do it for me.

That M38A1 is a serious beater. It needs brakes, tires, and a battery and I'll be on the road with it.

[53a1]

What's wrong with your A1? Is the body or frame really messed up?
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'53 M38A1 X2