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1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter
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1952 M38 converting to 12V
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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Finally started working on my M38
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Finally started working on my M38
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:58 pm    Post subject: M38A1 Reply with quote

The frame has good repairs to the front and back. The body is rotted and crunched in a few spots. The A1 will not be restored by me. I will be having some fun with it in the desert.
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much money will you have to put into it to make it reliable enough for the desert? Maybe a couple ATVs would be safer to venture out in.
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'53 M38A1 X2
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:49 pm    Post subject: M38A1 Reply with quote

It's really just brakes, tires and a battery. I was thinking of putting 11" drums on the front but haven't decided.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:39 pm    Post subject: Floor Reply with quote

Removed 45 pop rivets and the home made floor pan installed by the previous owner. Hat channels look good but the oak is missing. I'll need to get a new driver's floor pan.


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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16247
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are the hat channels even with the driver's side floor? The A1 floor interupts the hat channels so the tank can sit in it's tank well.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your time. I worked on mine off and on for a couple years before it was completed.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 6:59 am    Post subject: M38 Floor Reply with quote

These are pictures of my M38 that I am restoring. Dave and I had a brief discussion regarding the M38A1 that I am not restoring but now I am back to my flat fender Jeep restoration. I am sure that this is going to take a couple more years Sad . I need to get the rotisserie built before I really start working on the body. Until then, it's just some minor scrapping and banging out of dents.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:02 pm    Post subject: Tub Reply with quote

Did some work on the rear corner. Dents everywhere.

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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:47 am    Post subject: Tub Reply with quote

Dropped the tub off at Orange County Sandblasting on Friday 7/20/2012. $300 for the floor, under side, and inside tool and battery box. I did the outside panels with a fiber disk and grinder. The fiber disk removed paint, rust and bondo and was fairly kind to the sheet metal. I used about 8 disks at $4 each. Replacement driver's side floor arrived from Midwest Military a few weeks ago.
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know how the sand blasting goes. The guy went to last time got a little agressive but maybe that is the norm. I just don't have enough experience to know. When I got my parts back there was a rough surface finish on the metal. When I primed it I had to apply a few coats and sand them down to get it smooth again. Paint sure sticks well though.
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ocwd
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Tub Reply with quote

These guys did my fenders and grill a couple of years ago. They came out nice.
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, how should they look after blasting? Do your parts have a rough surface? I know when I sand blast small parts myself they are smooth. I'm asking because I'm kinda scared to bring my tub to the guy in my area.

Thanks.
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ocwd
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Tub Reply with quote

I wonder if your guy is a bit harsh with stuff. My tub was slightly rough but covered up nicely with one coat of primer. Here it is back from the blaster. I'll get a close up shot today before I finish applying primer to the bottom of the tub.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:28 am    Post subject: Tub Reply with quote

Maybe experience has something to do with it also. When I called for an estimate the first question was "is there any undercoating" He told me $300 to $350 on the phone. Then, when I dropped it off he told me closer to $300. When I picked it up, he charged me $250. The guy told me that they have done 50 or so Jeeps over the years.
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1740
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guy came to me- with a truck mt unit. Did it all, tub, fenders, hood,
windshield frame, tailgate, spare tire mt, seat frames, you name it. 400 bucks.
Good job.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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