Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject:
When you put your hat channels on, pre punch the flanges where you can get your grinder at. Sheet metal screw them up tight or they will raise and walk on you. Weld the punch holes first. Then pull out the screws and weld those holes up. Works well! John
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 6:21 pm Post subject:
Great idea given it's on a surface that I can't get a c-clamp on. I've had stuff raise on me before and it sucked. The channels come with pre-punched weld holes. I'm not sure what you are saying about the grinder.
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 6:33 pm Post subject:
Don't weld it where you can't get your grinder tool to reach is what I mean. Plan your weld points. I grind mine down with a stone type, and finish it off with a die grinder and 36 grit pad. When done, it looks like you didn't weld there. Nice and clean. Test fitting with sheet metal screws also gives you a chance to change it . I never make mistakes! John
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:04 pm Post subject:
Got it! I stink at grinding welds. I usually go too deep with the angle grinder & 4" wheel and have to put some Bondo over it. I'm probably using the wrong tool.
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:38 pm Post subject:
If you have air at your shop, you can buy really cheap die grinders and then fit carbide grinding heads, disc cut-off bits, and screw-on sander discs (small). These are the most valuable finish tools for cleaning up welds. I think they are well worth the money. You will find them great for cutting things too. Shortening chains, cutting exhaust pipes, hardened bolts, etc. Be sure to not let the spray hit glass , chrome, or nice paint!!! bad learning experience here! You're going to need them anyway ! John
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:28 am Post subject:
All my parts have arrived from Midwest. I got a early battery box cover, rear bumper and hat channels. The quality is PRIMO and I don't know how the guy makes a profit producing parts with that detail but I'm glad he is able to remain in operation.
I used to work in a machine shop and he looks like he is using laser cutting for his sheet metal parts. Those machines are super expensive. Also his break press work is perfect on the rear bumper. Usually you see some taper over a long channel bend if the guy doesn't know how to adjust the machine.
Even the battery box cover had the correct bend to fit the contour of the battery box. I didn't expect that because he would have to had work it or build a tool to stamp it correctly. Would have been easy to skate by with just keeping it flat.
The hat channels are over the top. The bends in those things are unreal. Can't wait to spend more money at Midwest.
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 9:01 pm Post subject:
The more I toyed with the idea of riveting the bumper on the more I was turned off to the idea. The rivets on the M38A1 frame are almost impossible to get to. Also, I was worried If I didn't get the rivets to sit correctly on the first try you will be in trouble.
I came up with, in my opinion, a better solution. I turned down some 3/8 carriage bolt heads to .745 holding onto the square part under the bolt head. I then face the head off. They look just like a rivet. The trick is that even with bolts, one on top and bottom on each side of the bumper are so hard to get to you can even get a wrench in there to snug it up.
What I did is I leave the head on those carriage bolts and cut a slot on them. There are four out of the ten that are impossible to get a wrench to turn on. You can then snug up the bolt with a screwdriver then grind the head flat. Those bolts are on the top and bottom so you can't see them anyway.
You have to cut the length of the bolt down on the four problem bolts and grind off the square part when you are done with the lathe work. You can see in the picture the bolts that are visible look perfect and the one on top is the one you have to grind down.
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 10:34 am Post subject:
All the faux rivets are installed.
New tires are not in my budget so I found some cheap used retreads dated 1970. I hope they work. If anyone needs the mutt rims let me know. I'm thinking of doing the tire change myself using a Harbor Freight tire changer and balancer. The shop wants more for mount & balance than I payed for two used tires with rims.
These channels are from Midwest. I had to post a picture because they look so nice.
Last edited by 53a1 on Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
The tires have a 50/50 chance of being good or bad. All depends. If you can still see the original red dot balance mark make sure the heaviest part of the tube is aligned with the red dot. (heaviest part is not always the valve stem) If they sat for a long time and are nylon they'll bounce for awhile so run them in first on the jeep for awhile before balancing them. Spin them by hand on the jeep to confirm retread tread is centered all the way around.
Was the center hump channel available? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
This is the correct puller. Is this the puller you used? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:56 am Post subject:
No I made my own because funds are low. That one looks more robust than the universal one I see on Ebay for 50.00. Do you know anyone who has a good deal on the one like you posted?
That would be a very low end price. The average would be around $80. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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John
I made my own because funds are low. That one looks more robust than the universal one I see on Ebay for 50.00. Do you know anyone who has a good deal on the one like you posted?
