Spindle bushing questions

[53a1]

Hello folks. I'm suffering from some serious front axle confusion.

I was reading the chapter 8 in the TM980152. On pg167 It talks about removing the bushing from the spindle. First of all it doesn't explain how to check if it good. After I install the axles there is wobble on the axle that protrudes from the spindle so I'm assuming mine is worn. Also, there appears to be another bushing the the end of the axle tubes. Once again when I insert the axle there is play between the axle bearing surface and the bushing.

Also, how do you drive out the bushing from the spindle? There is no lip on bushing to knock out with puch, puller or press.

Thanks.

[idiocrates]

Well.....right or wrong.....on mine I just figured they were worn out and needed replacing. They're cheap enough and simple enough to replace...and since I had the axle apart anyway.....I figured better now then later. To remove I used a long drift punch from the opposite side of the spindle and then used a seal installation tool to install the new bearing\bushing from the other side. I imagine a small hydralic press would work as well. The thrust washers that were located at the outer end of the axle tube were another matter all together. I literally had to use a cold chisel to cut the things to get them out and then used a dremel tool to clean up the seat and a seal installation tool to drive the new ones in. I didn't measure the end play after replacement of the bushing and thrust washer but I can tell you it didn't change appreciably from before hand. May be that the axle (and joint) have as much to do with end play as the bushing/thrust washer do. Good luck!
_________________
Jim

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'?? - M38A-1

[wesk]

The bushing and thrust washer arrangements are dependant on which style/brand front axles shafts you have. Bendix, Rzeppa, and Spicer and weather late or early style. A threaded axle tip is early style and is set up with shims at the drive flange. The later snap ring retained Rzeppa or full floating Bendix used a flanged outer bushing and a fkat inner thrust washer. The installation of the flanged outer bushing automatically controls the lateral free play and the bushing when compressed during the installation in the hub requires no reaming since it is sized to end up at the correct running clearance.

The civilian SM-1002 service manual has a much better explanation of how each is assembled.

Just a heads up, because you have an M38 does not mean the axle has always been serviced with the later type axles. Either will fit in the housing and the rules are different early vs late. This is not discussed in the military service manual.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[53a1]

Thanks Wes

You guys know the proper inside diameter for the outside flanged bushing for the non-threaded late type bendix? Seems to be a very loose fit.

Thanks.

[53a1]

I thought I'd bump this topic and revise by last post because my question was close to illiterate.

The axles in my A1 are late Bendix (no snap ring) with a flanged bushing in the hub and and an inner thrust bushing. I have lots of clearance between the axle and both bushings. Sound normal?