Leaf spring rebuild

Ranger · Member Joined: Apr 10, 2011 Posts: 18 Location: Houston TX

I remember looking at a topic where someone rebuilt the leaf springs, I just went through all 62 pages looking at anything that contained the words leaf spring in the title and found nothing. Can someone help me out and provide a link to the topic? I hate just asking but I'm tired of looking.

Thanks, Ranger

hill · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:02 pm Post subject: leaf springs

Go to downloads then to M38 and M38 A1 then at top of page go to axle . I hope this helps.

Ranger · Member Joined: Apr 10, 2011 Posts: 18 Location: Houston TX

Thanks, thats even better than what I was looking for.

mckim · Posted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 11:40 pm Post subject:

I'll make a few comments on that guide:

First, you should NEVER use metal prep (phosphoric acid) solution on springs. This results in what is known as hydrogen embrittlement, which will lead to cracks and failure of the springs. Your results may not be as sudden as this guy's: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/rust-removal-lesson-learned-213091/ but still very possible. Some argue that it's not actually hydrogen embrittlement, but that the acid attacks any existing small cracks (which all of our springs do in fact have), causing accelerated fracture. Either way, the results are bad, and not necessarily immediate. The same goes for electrolytic rust removal.

Second, grease between the leaves isn't really necessary. In fact, the shop we had re-arch and reassemble our springs strongly recommended against it, as it collects and retains extra, abrasive, dirt. A well-known restoration book (Collector Car Restoration Bible by Matt Joseph) also lists it as a big no-no. That dirt will wear through your carefully painted leaves and start rusting (even though you have a thin layer of grease in there). (And painting isn't really necessary, but won't hurt anything either. It's going to wear off quickly.)

Also, have you checked the arch of your springs yet? Worth doing before disassembly so you don't end up having to take your spiffy rebuilt springs in to the shop for all that manual persuasion (beatings with a hammer).

Otherwise, knock yourself out. Very Happy

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1952 M38 - restoration in process, 1000 miles away...

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

mckim,

Where did you take your springs to get re-arched? How much did it run you?

Thanks.
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'53 M38A1 X2

mckim · Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 7:42 pm Post subject:

DJ · Member Joined: Apr 15, 2005 Posts: 289 Location: Wis.

The local spring shop here told me he could rearch them ,but wouldn't reccomend or guarantee them. He said within a year the 60 year old springs would be sagging again.

mckim · Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:15 pm Post subject:

The guy at E & C said that's what would happen if they were just re-arched using a press instead of hammering each on an anvil by hand.
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1952 M38 - restoration in process, 1000 miles away...

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Thanks mckim.

I head down that way from Kern Co. sometimes and I wouldn't mind having mine done.

Thanks for the heads up on using acid on springs. I did use some on my springs so I'll keep watching them to see what happens.
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'53 M38A1 X2

RimfireJim · Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 11:48 am Post subject:

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Thank for the info. I'd love to check out your project. I was in Escondido for 10 years myself so know the area very well.
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'53 M38A1 X2


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