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Cacti_Ken
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Joined: Apr 20, 2005
Posts: 1021
Location: Silsbee, Texas
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 Posted: Fri May 06, 2011 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Autozone's breakline tube is painted sort of OD. a little darker shade than 23070. I used it to make all my lines.
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35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Got them installed. Not that hard. Messed up on one flare that had to be redone. I think the hardest part was just making the smaller bends.
I use the same stuff as you Ken from AZ. Pretty cool how its almost a match on the paint color.
Cost:
25' brake line $19.99
fittings 3 packs of 5 $ 8.97
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country
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| Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:48 pm Post subject: brake lines |
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Ok, so what is a double flare?
Brian |
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Xamon
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 589
Location: South East Saskatchewan
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jimm
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Joined: Nov 01, 2011
Posts: 199
Location: Escondido, CA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:14 pm Post subject: Re: brake lines |
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| 4x4M38 wrote: | Ok, so what is a double flare?
Brian |
A double flare is where the end of the tube is folded back on the inside of the flare. Requires a slightly different tool than single flares. Plenty of info on double flares on the Internet - a search engine is your friend.
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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wesk
Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16258
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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Most automotive brake and fuel lines are required to be double flared. You can find the proper flaring tool for double flares from reasonable to a couple hundred dollars. They also come in both SAE 45 Deg and Aviation 37 Deg.
Step one a die is used to create the shape shown. Step two is the normal flare but results in two layers of tubing in the flares load bearing surface when it is seated on the receiving side cone.
A little better illustration here. Note steps go vertically 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and not straight across the illustration.
Here's a tool for under $30
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4504-Stinger-Bubble-Flaring/dp/B0015PMZMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1361314217&sr=8-1&keywords=bubble+flare
This is the 37 degree tool I have for aircraft work. It sells today for $689
This is my 45 degree automotive tool. $150
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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tomahawk715
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Joined: Sep 22, 2010
Posts: 32
Location: Black River/Michigan
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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Well this certainly is not the cheap way to go---but after messing with cheap hand flaring tools that only seem to produce good flares every three attempts I bit the bullet and got one of these
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Actually the deciding factor was needing lines for my 2004 gmc one ton diesel (if you own a gm truck/vehicle crawl under and look at your lines--scary after 6 years)
Anyway got this thing to do the lines--I cannot say enough good things about it. Its not cheap but these things can be Really expensive. Biggest issue is everyone wants to borrow it |
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AAHUNT
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Joined: Mar 09, 2014
Posts: 26
Location: N.W. Lower Michigan
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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I use CuproNickle or Cunifer (UK) brake line...much easier to flare and bend and doesn't rust up here in the North. It costs more than steel (about 1.75x)...but I hate replacing brake lines. 
FWIW, my 71' XJ6 Jag has Cunifer lines on it from new...they are still good with very little corrosion. |
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jimm
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Joined: Nov 01, 2011
Posts: 199
Location: Escondido, CA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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| tomahawk715 wrote: | Well this certainly is not the cheap way to go---but after messing with cheap hand flaring tools that only seem to produce good flares every three attempts I bit the bullet and got one of these
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Actually the deciding factor was needing lines for my 2004 gmc one ton diesel (if you own a gm truck/vehicle crawl under and look at your lines--scary after 6 years)
Anyway got this thing to do the lines--I cannot say enough good things about it. Its not cheap but these things can be Really expensive. Biggest issue is everyone wants to borrow it |
Yowza, that certainly isn't the cheap way, but I can see how you got there. I tried a Lisle brand tool first and was unhappy with the results, so I returned it and got an OTC 4503 which worked for me. I've been real happy with all the OTC tools I've bought so far.
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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jimm
Member
Joined: Nov 01, 2011
Posts: 199
Location: Escondido, CA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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| AAHUNT wrote: | I use CuproNickle or Cunifer (UK) brake line...much easier to flare and bend and doesn't rust up here in the North. It costs more than steel (about 1.75x)...but I hate replacing brake lines.
FWIW, my 71' XJ6 Jag has Cunifer lines on it from new...they are still good with very little corrosion. |
A source for Cunifer line in the US is http://www.cunifer.com/ - their website says "exclusive importer".
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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OKCM38CDN
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 530
Location: Del City, OK
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| Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 8:31 am Post subject: |
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I have one of the Eastwood tools also, works great on all the sizes I need to flare...
And I got my Nickel Copper Lines from NAPA ask for NiCopp lines... Costs more but are the proper color and seem easy to work with.
I admit I have not made any lines yet... waiting for the temps to drop...
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Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country
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| Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Amen on the temperature. Been hovering right at 100 here for a couple of weeks, with not much of a break in sight.
Laying on my back under that oak tree working on the brakes is for the young!
The nice thing about Okla vs. Texas Hill Country is usually once it hits 100, it's not far to the first cold front. Ok, it gets hot still, but one can see fall coming down the road.
Brian |
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