Posted: Sat May 14, 2011 6:59 pm Post subject: Article on maint and adjust of autolite 24V reg?
I found this article about a year ago. Don't remember which site or forum. I thought I had bookmarked it, but now I can't find it.
It was a well written article. The writer had a thorough knowledge of the 24V reg and was in favor of using it instead of converting to 12V.
The article included clear and detailed instructions for cleaning and adjusting the 24V reg.
Sound familiar? I'll be grateful if you can post a link to it or tell me how I can find it. Thanks! _________________ 1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
I've done quite a few forum disortations on the reliability of the military 24 volt systems and their upkeep. Bottom line is they will operate trouble free for years with a few simple common sense set-up and maintenance procedures. Everything you need to know about maintaining and setting up the 24 volt 25 amp GI system is in TM 9-1825B date 1952. Of course this assumes that you are technically competent and well versed in 12 volt generator system maintenance and set up. The needed protions of the TM are on our site's downloads page. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks Wes. I went back farther in my search and found your post I had remembered. It was from March 2010. There were a number of others. You deserve a medal for your patience and willingness to answer our questions!
I'm not well versed in vehicle electrics, so I'll read the manual and give it a try. My dash gauge reads all the way to the right. A shop I took it to said the regulator was putting out 34 volts. _________________ 1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
The regulators have three primary relays and functions. The current regulator regulates current, the voltage regulator regulates voltage and the circuit breaker connects the regulator to the generator.
The circuit breaker can do the most damage if it sticks closed when the engine is not running it will feed battery voltage directly to the stationary generator which will try to spin like an electric motor but the belts will resist the spinning and the generator will overheat and burn itself up.
The current regulator and voltage regulator sections require a delicate balancing during setup and you will need the correct equipment to do it.
For folks with limited experience in this area it is best to remove the generator and the regulator and take them to their auto-electric shop for servicing and adjustment. If you have a good local shop but they are not familiar with these units print copies of the TM 9-1825B gen and reg sections and take them with you to the shop. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
I think that's good advice. I read through the manual this morning, several times, and came to the same conclusion.
There is a local shop that's been around for a while. One of the owners has experience with these older units. I'm going to bring them the reg, gen, and a copy of the manual pages this week. _________________ 1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 12:12 pm Post subject: Follow up and Shop recommendation in Boise
I took the jeep to Huskey Electric in Boise. I’d been told that they where a good shop. Been in business since 1952. Dean Huskey, second generation owner, is The Man. He took the regulator out of the jeep, took it apart and cleaned it, put it back, did the final adjustments and it is now charging right on spec. A little over an hour’s worth of shop time.
After talking with him a bit I could tell he knows his way around vehicle electric issues. In addition to my jeep, they were rewiring a Thunderbird, a Riviera and repairing the electrical system in an old Greyhound bus that had been converted into a motor home.
Give them a call if you’re in the Boise area and need some work done. _________________ 1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 1:33 pm Post subject:
FOR ANY OF YOU IN THE TWIN FALLS IDAHO AREA, THERES A SHOP
CALLED HAINES AUTO ELECTRIC. DUANE (OWNER) IS FLUENT IN
24V MILITARY ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. HE WAS ON GOVT CONTRACT IN THE 60'S AND 70'S REBUILDING ELECTRICS FOR THE MILITARY.
I TOOK MY STUFF IN THERE AND HE KNEW EXACTLY WHAT AND WHY.
ITS GOOD WHEN YOU CAN FIND THE OLDER SHOPS WHERE THE
GUYS KNOW THEIR STUFF.. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Thanks for that info. I've added it to our contacts list. Our J10 is going to be spending some time in Twin. Never know when it might need some help. _________________ 1953 M38A1 (His)
1963 CJ5 w/Tuxedo Park Mk III (Hers)
See you at the Old Jeep Rendezvous in Ashton, Idaho 9:00 am - Noon on the first Saturday after July 4th. All pre-1970 Jeep vehicles, military or civilian, stock or modified welcome.
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:07 pm Post subject:
I've looked at the instructions also and they aren't that bad.
I cleaned and adjusted the points on mine this weekend. I'm pretty good with the electronics and I work with guys that are real good. After I build my test setup I will adjust the springs.
Basically, you need to purchase a rheostat about 0-.75 ohm 150 watt and a 50 amp shunt to measure the amps with your multimeter.
Adjust the points as described in the first part then adjust the springs with the rheostat and amp guage setup shown in the diagram. Use the shunt in place of the amp meter and measure voltage across shunt to calculate amps. All the data is provided in the tables and you need almost all of it.
I think it's crazy to try to perfrom all the tests while the regulator is in the vehicle so I'm going to build a test stand and drive the generator with another electric motor.
Last, you need to add a speed control to your electric motor and calibrate it for the RPMs needed for the test. _________________ '53 M38A1 X2
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