Joined: Apr 03, 2005 Posts: 271 Location: Chester County, PA
Posted: Tue Jan 24, 2006 10:32 pm Post subject: M38A1 Back Panel + Rear Seat
Alright,
Today, I was going to paint the top of my tub. Had to drill a few holes in the back, no problemo, right? Well, the first couple were okay. But got to the 4th one on the jerry can holder, that was another story. The hat channels on the back panel were so far off from the rear floorboard that I had to cut them where they started to bend, then bang them down, then reweld the cut. Well, the drill bit hit the weld metal, didn't feel like chewing through it, and in about a nanosecond, it chewed through 1/4 - 3/8 of metal, enlongating the hole. Great. Just great. That ticked me off a good deal, but since the jerry can has such masive spacers, I figured no one would see it.
Started to drill the holes for the spare tire carrier. Bottom two came out okay. Had no real easy way to measure where the top 2 went, so I just held the tire carrier up and marked where they went. Started drilling...and this is where the problem starts to occur. All of the sudden the drill kicks out of my hand cause the drill bit locked up. Looked on the opposite side, and long and behold, right below the horizontal top hat channel (actually both kinda cut half moons into the horizontal hat channel).
I was positive I tripple checked my measurements. I checked again. Finally, I checked the horizontal top hatchannel (the one towards the rear seat)'s height. It is about 3/8-1/2 short, and thus, causing all of my problems. Its flush on the bottom with the wheel wells like its supposed to be, but its just too darn high.
Needless to say, I'm freakin' pissed. I did a little research and foundout the company I bought it from got it from MD Juan. Ironic we just had a topic on MD Juan's quality, eh? Needless to say, never again will I buy another panel that was MD Juan made unless Im there with a pair of calipers checking every dimension known to mankind on that thing.
It originally didn't come with the two bottom frame mounts, which wasnt a big deal -- I fabricated a few. And the verticle hat channels were up to 3/4 of an inch off....never consistant, some touched and others didn't. These were just little hassles, and okay fixes. But now that my whole spare tire carrier is messed up plus some enlongated holes for my jerry can as a byproduct or direct cause of their failure to produce a truely accurate panel, I'm just downright, royally, ticked off. If my Cessna 152 held enough aviation gas to fly over the pacific to MD Juan, I would - and I would tear their quality control department a new one.
I talked with my dad about possible fixes. We came up with the idea of getting a 1/8th inch piece of steel and drill the top holes in it, then keep that plate on the backside of the hat channels, and run the bolts through that. Now, I know there is suppsed to be carriage bolts there. Is that because the rear seat comes that close to the rear panel? If so, I probably wont be able to do this. Anyone else have any other ideas then?
Thanks,
A super ticked off, yet thankful for any help you could give, Bob Collins. _________________ Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
Have you called the two US panel builders? Wisconsin and Jeep Panels Plus. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Apr 03, 2005 Posts: 271 Location: Chester County, PA
Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:09 pm Post subject:
Nope. I'm not much for replacing the panel. I welded it in there in a lot of places, so it's going to be a pain to cut out. Furthuremore, both back rounded corners were extremely dented. Got some of the dents out, but I had to do some real careful bondo work there. Cutting out is gonna destrouy the bototm paint too....and I'm just not for that. I paid 200-300$ for this thing, and I'd rather make it work than buy a new one....and set me back weeks.
I know my fixes will be a little ugly...but I really have no choice. Not much for welding the holes up, as its gonna burn the paint inside the hat channels Ihave there for rust protection. Also, one has wood in it. If I put the 1/8 piece of steel there and use a couple of cap screws, thats not going to screw with the seat at all, will it? _________________ Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
Bob,
You know the old saying A picture is worth a thousand words. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Apr 03, 2005 Posts: 271 Location: Chester County, PA
Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2006 8:36 pm Post subject:
Hi Wes, this is what I'm talking about:
As you can see, theres the half of one hole poking out right below the horizontal hat channel, and tothe right hand side of the vertical.
Now, this is where I was planning on putting that eigth inch steel plate. I would finish off the holes that were just below the hat channel...kinda half moon it, then run a long cap screw through there to the other side and have a couple of lock nuts on the spare tire carrier side. Will this work? _________________ Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
I bet your plan would work. You could finish out that piece of metal and most people would not be the wiser. _________________ Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010
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If my Cessna 152 held enough aviation gas to fly over the pacific to MD Juan, I would - and I would tear their quality control department a new one.
A picture is worth a thousand words. 
