Combat Rim Repair Repaint etc...

[bikemancs]

Ok guys, this seems like there should be about 15 threads on this... but, not seeing it.

So, help me out. total, I'm looking at doing up to 7 total combat rims. 4 on the Jeep, one spare, and 2 on the M100 I just picked up.

I'm looking to do a full strip, repaint, etc...

I was thinking about powder coating them to maintain the paint for a longer term. Is this a viable option? Has anyone else done it? what kind of cost was there?

[wesk]

I assume you know that combat 2 piece rims were not used on the M38/M38A1/M170. Powder coating will inhibit your ability to spot cracks when they show up around the bolt holes. Those two piece combat rims were not certified with 7.00-16 rubber. Cleaned up and properly painted for WWII jeep and trailer they would bring you almost $200 a wheel. That comes out to about $1400 you can buy actual M38/M100 stuff with.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[bikemancs]

This is what all mine look like...



the two on the trailer are much worse for wear. they all have the small offset hole in them.

[wtb853]

The term "combat rims (wheels)" refers to the two piece wheels that came on MBs/GPWs which allowed for tire changes in the field without specialized tools. The wheel in your picture appears to be the standard issue 7.00X16 that came on M38s.

As for powder coating, how important is color to you (OD, etc.)? There are a variety of colors, but I don't know that any shop could match OD 2430 green exactly if you are after a military correct restoration.
_________________
1951 M38 (MC25486)

[bikemancs]

Ahh.... that's where the glitch comes in. I presumed Combat Rim referred generally to the military style rims, not the split piece...

Color... as long as I can get close, I'd be happy. I'm not working on a factory perfect truck.

[RICKG]

My experience w/powder coat is that the gloss is typically
higher than semi-gloss-just my 2 cents..
_________________
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

[Bretto]

Im not a fan of powdercoating. It tends to hold up till it starts flaking off in big chunks. By that time, rust has migrated everywhere under it. Paint will show its defects and is cheaper.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[bikemancs]

Bretto, good to know. Would the solution of ensuring that it gets media (sand or similar) blasted and then powdercoated, the whole rim at once, solve that problem?

[evanso1975]

Have to agree with Bretto here. Powder coating is great as long as it remains intact. All you need is the smallest of holes in it and the water just walks right in as if it owned the place. I've seen this happen first hand on brand new steel furniture and also aluminium flashings for buildings. That's new metal that's been professionally blasted and degreased by the powder coating folks.

This might be of interest:

http://www.diy-lpg.co.uk/articles/files/powder-coating-sucks.html

P.S. Dad ran the GPW on the road for 20 years with just red oxide primer and 3 or 4 coats of OD on the wheels. Never had a problem in the good old UK weather (we're not really a popular sunshine destination!). Used to leave it parked on the side of a busy main road too.

Good luck, whatever coating system you decide to use.......
_________________
Owen

1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406

[jimm]

[oilleaker1]

Forget powdercoating around wheeled applications. To apply it, you must be absolutely clean to bare metal, no rust etc. There is no sealer or primer under it. That's why, if chipped, it rusts underneath terribly. It's very hard and expensive to get back off whether you like it or not. It thins where metal is rivited or jointed and rusts there first. Once rust starts, you are screwed. It is nothing more than melted plastic paint. It is cheap to apply and costs more to get back off than most items cost new. I am a blaster, and can attest to all this first hand. Epoxy primer/sealer first, then apply your choice of paint. A winning combination. John

[bikemancs]

and this is why I asked. Thanks for the input.

As to blasting... sand blast? or some other media? the rims on the jeep have already been done once, but the spots where the lug nuts are have either removed or otherwise allowed the undercoats to show.

[oilleaker1]

Plastic media or soda removes paint and primer delicately, but not rust. If you have rust showing or possible, use a fine sand. To get a nice smooth gloss, sand the (sandable) primer smooth before applying the top coat of color with at least 360 grit, 600 being the best. Just the outside face. You more than likely will have rust inside the rim and getting it off for better tube life is important. Rims also have a habit of having rust around the valve stem hole. Soda requires washing with a acidic solution to kill the base. Acid primers react bad to it. Paint will not stick to the film. I use either sand or plastic. Hope this helps. John

[bikemancs]

John it does, thanks. I will have to sandblast the 2 trailer rims for sure. I'll have to see how bad the others are, but I imagine the time for 2 rims won't differ too much than 7 rims since they're so small. (?)

[TomM]

agreed with the 'dont powerdercoat' crowd. In the snow belt rust will form under the plastic coating and grow undereith. Then finally the plastic will fall off and show you a big rusty damaged wheel. Powerdercoating holds the water in as well as keeps it out. Its like immersing your freshly sandblasted parts in a tupperwear container full of salt water.

For blasting the wheels are not delicate so black beauty or any other fast cut will work and it will be tough to damage them. Coat with epoxy primer and your choice of any topcoat.