Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 96 Location: Rose New York
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:06 am Post subject: M38 shifting levers & tranny removal
Have to pull my tranny to replace seals, dont want to pull motor again, what is the easiest way to remove the tranny, and how are the shifting levers removed.
Joined: Jan 16, 2006 Posts: 38 Location: Lake Charles, Louisiana
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:24 am Post subject:
I'm not very familiar with the M38 but if it's the same as the M38A1, just jack the jeep up high enough and you can drop the bellhousing, trany, transfer and shifters right out the bottom after you unbolt everything. I've done it by myself and with a little patience and time, it wasn't that hard to do. Sucked but wasn't hard. I placed a low lift hydraulic jack under the crossmember to lower everything together and then slid the jack out from under it, placing it on a piece of plywood and slid they entire package out the side. Right after I rebuilt mine I had to drop it to replace the brass ring that goes into the very front of the transmission because it wore out and caused a wobble and oil leak in the bell housing. _________________ 1953 M38A1 F-Head
2-Pull the tranny transfer from the rear of the engine while it is installed then separate on the bench.
3-Pull the transfer first from under the jeep then pull the tranny.
None of these can begin to be described as easy.
You neglected to tell us which model jeep you have. You should always list your jeep model when asking for help. The easiest way to do that is place the model of your jeep in your signature by going to your profile and adding it.
M38 manual references:
TM 9-8012
Page 238 Tranny removal
Page 235 Transfer removal
Page 122 Powerplant removal. (Page 128 items (1) thru (4) cover the stick removals)(you do (1) thru (4) without pulling the engine.)
M38A1 manual references:
TM 9-8014
Page 237 Transfer removal
Page 233 tranny removal
Page 123 Powerplant removal. (Page 128 items (1) thru (4) cover the stick removals)(you do (1) thru (4) without pulling the engine.) (page 129 item (1) driveshafts
As you can see the Army considers the Powerplant removal the easiest way to access and service the tranny/transfer and I agree with them. Unless you have access to a lift and the proper supports and tranny jacks. Having done the "Laying on the floor on my back under the beast method I'll never do that again. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Make sure you support the rear of the engine or the side mount rubbers will tear. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
First remove all the floor pans. To remove the transmission shift lever, unscrew the six bolts holding the transmission top plate that the shift stick is attached to. If I recall right there are six bolts. Lift the shift lever and top plate straight up and out.
I don't think the transfer case levers need to be removed in order to get the T/C out. They are short enough to not hinder the removal of the T/C. But in any case to get them off, remove the bolt that is going thru the center of them.
I hope you have a manual. _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
Last edited by Cacti_Ken on Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:24 am; edited 1 time in total
Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:24 am Post subject:
If all you want to do is to remove the transfer case shift levers, in the "Downloads" section of this website refer to the diagram on page 76 of TM9-1804B Power Train, Body and Frame for M38. Shows the shift levers are held on the transfer by 1 pivot bolt - unscrew it and the shift levers lift off. The greasable pivot bolt can be accessed through the side of the transmission hump - there's a little door held on by 2 bolts. One of the bolt holes is slotted so you just have to loosen to pivot the door. Greasing the transfer case lever pivot bolt zerk is part of the usual lubrication schedule. You can pull the levers by just removing the lever boot and cover and the pivot bolt.
If you want to service the entire trans/transfer - I agree with the above recommendation to remove the entire power plant as a unit. Even though there are a few more bolts and fittings to undo, the entire process will not take much more time and you are working mostly while standing at the side of the jeep, not crawling around underneath. The biggest pain for me is removing all the floor bolts and removing all the floor panels. But once that's done there isn't that much more to go to have the entire power plant out. I've removed and replaced the power plants on my M38 and M38A1 several times as units and I wouldn't want to try to align and replace the trans while working underneath. Not that it can't be done but I like to work standing up. _________________ 1951 M38
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