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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Taking the next step in my M38A1....transmission leaks....
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Taking the next step in my M38A1....transmission leaks....

 
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linx310
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Joined: Jul 05, 2009
Posts: 158
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2012 10:28 pm    Post subject: Taking the next step in my M38A1....transmission leaks.... Reply with quote

Back in December I posted about wanting to redoing my M38a1 as a frame off.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6162

I think I am going to take the boards advice and not do a frame off and try to correct the issues one by one.

The three biggest issues I want to correct are:

1. Leaky transmission and transfer case
2. Upgrade the brake system, I think I have decided to go with the 11 inch drum swap instead of a disc brake conversion.
3. Add a military turn signal kit for safety reasons.

So I need some advice on issue 1.

The transmission seems to be leaking in the area where the transmission and transfer case mate together. Also there may be a minor leak at the area where the drive shafts connect to the transmission and transfer case.

Now most the manuals I have show removal of the Transmission and TC with he body tub off. I won't have that luxury.

I tried searching on this forum for advice in regards to dropping them with the tub on, but my search skills did not seem to be able to turn any thing up.

Are there any good step by step videos or pictures on how to do this with the tub on?

Also are there seal kits that are better then the originals?
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16225
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the search function doesn't work for you try scrolling down thru the first 4 or 5 pages of posts and see if the topic has just recently been discussed.

On page 2 you'll find this post:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6680

AND on page 1 just above your post is this post:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6742

I recommend
removing the engine with the tranny and transfer for several reasons.

1-Better to take a look at a lot of things that can have you right back under the jeep later taking it apart again. IE, Clutch condition, rear seal leaks, rear cam journal leaks.

2-Easier to do the bulk of the work with the engine and tranny/transfer hanging on the hook right in front of you.

3-Less than an hours difference in removal and installation times.

If you have a lift and the proper tools then go for the bottom side work. If you don't then go for the top side work. Two days on your back under the jeep then a month later looking at two more days under the jeep for a different problem just isn't worth it.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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linx310
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Joined: Jul 05, 2009
Posts: 158
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks wesk...I think I know why the search didn't work, I had an operand to look specifically for M38a1 rather then just for m38 and the word tranny.
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skyjeep50
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Joined: Feb 20, 2007
Posts: 606
Location: Illinois

PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The M38 and M38A1 were designed for the military so that the entire power plant could be removed as a unit - radiator, engine, trans, transfer and accessories. That's why the M38 and early M38A1's had hinged grills to ease removal and clear the way faster. It's a one person job, maybe taking an hour or a little more, need an engine hoist but the jeep doesn't need to be jacked up. An air wrench will help speed things up - especially taking out the couple hundred floor bolts (seems that many when you're wrenching manually). Laughing
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