Oil pressure while cranking engine

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

I'm getting ready to fire up a F134 I just rebuilt. I didn't replace the original oil pump but I cleaned it out and put it back together. I filled the pump with oil and injected oil into the oil passages.

I cranked it with the plugs out and I saw oil going up the clean oil pressure line to the oil pressure meter but it didn't register any oil pressure. I'm using a brand new mechanical meter.

How many PSI should I expect while cranking it? I don't feel confident starting it at this point.

Thanks.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

donthedickens · Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 4:20 pm Post subject:

53a1,

I have a 1953 CJ3B with the F134. It has a 6 volt starter on 12 volts so it turns fasst. Mechanical gauge also. I tried it and..

It didn't show any oil pressure after cranking for 12 seconds. At that time it started and ran with 40psi cold oil. Any other time it wouldn't start unless I pulled the choke,, but noo,, day it wants to run. I didn't pull the coil wire and try again.

Unless someone hollars don't, I'd say try it. If after running a few seconds you don't get pressure, shut down.
_________________
Don Norris
Southeast, NC
53 CJ3B F134
59 Willys Pick-up truck
54 CJ3B is my M606 wanta-be in progress (rough)
M100 trailer

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Thanks for the feedback. I will probably pop out the pressure release spring and make sure it's not stuck.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

wesk · Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 10:40 pm Post subject:

You would need to crank it over 600 RPM's to get any oil pressure indication. You will also need to bleed that gauge by loosening the fitting at the back of the gauge as you crank the engine until oil drips out the fitting. Don't expect more than 1 to 3 PSI though. Remember that 5 PSI is an acceptable idle oil pressure reading!

Also you should pressure feed the oil gallery on the left side of the engine with an external oil primer before attempting a start.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

I cranked the engine until the oil dripped out of the line then installed the guage. I will loosen the connection and bleed it.

I pumped oil into the engine with a hand pump and filled the oil pump with oil. I also filled the canister filter housing with oil.

I'm not sure what RPM it was cranking at but probably not 600 - even with the plugs out. I'm pretty sure some oil is flowing in the system because it dripping out the oil guage line but how much is uncertain.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Good news.

I pulled the spring out and pulled the pump to examine things. Nothing seemed wrong so I primed it again and installed. I noticed while cranking that the starter slowed when the oil started flowing up the line to the gauge and it was pretty obvious the it was pumping oil but no oil pressure at the gauge again. I fired it up anyway and it hit 60 psi instantly.

One thing I did notice is the last owner put a spacer under the spring in the oil pump I guess to increase the oil pressure. 60 psi seems fine for a cold engine so I guess I'll leave it in.

Anyone have any opinions on seating the rings? I think the machine shop said to run it at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes to seat them. I need to get it timed and running correctly before I can do this.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

wesk · Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 8:24 am Post subject:

Full seating of the rings will take a lot longer than 10 Min at 2000 RPM. Your shop is referring to an initial run-in which is usually followed by a re-torgueing of the head bolts on gaskets that require a re-torgue.

Generally the equivalent of 500 miles of normal driving while always varying the speed is required. If you carefully watch oil consumption you will be able to confirm full seating of the rings when there is a sudden drop in oil consumption or you reach the lowest oil consumption two or three checks in a row.

This is hard to do correctly on a restoration since they tend not to be driven regularly enough to make a full and proper ring seating happen.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Great info Wes.

I'll try to plop the engine into the Jeep asap. For now I mounted it in an extra frame so I can start it up once a week and keep the oil circulated.

Possibly a stupid question but can you get yourself into a situation where the rings will never seat? I'm talking about my situation where I start it up once a week but never drive it.

Thanks.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

wesk · Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:47 pm Post subject:

Yes you can but ring material vs bore can effect the outcome.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

oilleaker1 · Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:29 am Post subject:

You did good! Did you put a new cam and lifters in it? If so, and do it anyway, use oil with the zinc additive or get the additive and put it in to protect the cam. Running it at 2000 rpm's sounds like cam break-in procedure. Seating rings as I was told is done by speeding up and slowing down while driving. Chrome rings in the old chevys sometimes wouldn't seat. Old time mechanics would put a very small amount of bonami cleanser in 10 weight oil and slowly pour it down the carb while the engine was running. Another way was to put it in the cylinders while building the engine and turn it over by hand and then wipe it back out. Your rings most likely don't need this treatment. It was only done when the engine wouldn't stop burning oil when new. I've always got oil pressure reading on the mechanical gauges but haven't tried it on the electric sender type. John

53a1 · Member Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.

Thanks guys.

I finally got it running correctly. I had a leak in the carb base gasket. I fired it up and it sounded so nice. I didn't change the cam and tappets but used zink anyway. I let it run for half an hour bringing it up in RPM every once in a while and holding it there. The temp stayed at a nice 185 and oil pressure was 15 PSI at low idle warm and would jump to 40-50 when I brought it up to 2000 RPM. I drained the oil after the run.
_________________
'53 M38A1 X2

donthedickens · Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:13 pm Post subject:

YA HOO !!!!!!
_________________
Don Norris
Southeast, NC
53 CJ3B F134
59 Willys Pick-up truck
54 CJ3B is my M606 wanta-be in progress (rough)
M100 trailer


Create an account	Home · · Forums · · Articles · · Downloads · · Photo Gallery


PHP-Nuke Copyright © 2005 by Francisco Burzi. This is free software, and you may redistribute it under the GPL. PHP-Nuke comes with absolutely no warranty, for details, see the license.