Update for my 1953 M38A1

[KSOIFVET]

I got my M38A1 Running today and I can drive her around, but she sputters & backfires quite a bit. I've tried adjusting the carb., what else should I try?
_________________
"Live Free or Die"
Chris Somers
184th Security Forces Squadron
Kansas Air National Guard
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran
Combat Wounded, USA
1953 M38A1
~Until You Return Home Safely Daniel~

[OKCM38CDN]

Check the timing... and fuel flow...

[KSOIFVET]

what's the easiest way to check timing & flow?
_________________
"Live Free or Die"
Chris Somers
184th Security Forces Squadron
Kansas Air National Guard
Operation Iraqi Freedom Veteran
Combat Wounded, USA
1953 M38A1
~Until You Return Home Safely Daniel~

[Ryan_Miller]

Check out the Downloads section for the M38A1 engine and under that topic there is two articles on how to time your engine.

Also here are a few excerpts from earlier discussions.


Timing adapter from Felix Sasso:

The photo shows a contrption that works very well when using a regular 12 Volts induction timing light.
The red cable is the coil to distributor cable of a Ford 289 engine. The end with the pin and the electric tape goes into the M38 spark plug; the opposite end fits in the spring and rubber jacket end of the M-38 spark plug cable.
Next posting show the installation.









Another note from Felix, Hal and Wes about engine timing:

Finally I was able to check the timing of “The Beast” and found out it is about – 5 degrees from TDC so is about 10 degrees retarded from specifications.
The problem is that my distributor is as far as it can go in the clockwise direction. The fitting of the distributor vent line hits the temperature sending unit, and the groove in the sector that looks the timing of the distributor is at its limit.
When I got this car the distributor was loose because somebody was trying to start it so I set at TDC and inserted the distributor and “the Beast” started.
How do I fix this problem? Do I have to remove the pump and rotate it 1 tooth? So I can set back #1 30 degrees and then bring back the distributor 30 degrees so I can have full adjustment?
The picture it shows the actual set up of distributor timing and spark plug cables. One guy suggested moving the wires in the distributor one notch in the clockwise direction and then bringing back the distributor to match #1. I do not think this is going to work. Because moving the cables will rotate 90 degrees # 1 and I would only be able to come back 30 degrees.
Any ideas that would not require to remove the oil pump? Number 1 wire is about 5 o' clock


Felix,

I had same problem, and I am sorry to say your gonna need to rotate the oil pump... Unless someone knows of another way to do it...

Also unless I am wrong #1 should be about 7 o'clock... Looking at the schematic drawing in TM 9-8012, Fig 54; the #1 plug wire should be near the input wire to the distributor.

Hope this helps...
Hal

Felix,
Now everyone can see why I try to convince folks to set the oil pump correctly rather than just match wires to where #1 falls when the piston is TDC. In the majority of cases the folks luck out and have room. In your case you'll just have to bite the bullet. Short of machining new keyway in the crank and dowell holes in the cam and it's gear the only way to get it right is to properly index the pump. Using the finger in the plug hole to determine TDC with number one on compression will get you close to TDC but can easily leave you 2 or more degrees off either way. Setting your oil pump to that position may or may not get you in the ball park. Using a home made wiggle tool to show the piston movement when inserted in the plug hole will be more accurate. The most accurate way is to pull the front cover and align the valve/cam timing marks with #1 TDC on compression.

Wes
_________________
Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010