Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 9:17 am Post subject: Suggestions on painting a new body kit
I purchased a full M38 body kit last year and will be installing and painting it this spring/summer. My question is how to prep the parts. All the parts came with a red primer from the factory. My plan was to scuff the paint, degrease, and then prime again with Gillespie red oxide primer followed by Gillespie 24087 (the color my jeep was when it left the service).
However, a knowledgeable person suggested removing all the original primer and starting with bare metal. Removing all the original primer would be a significant task that I would like to avoid if possible.
I will be doing all of the painting at home with rattle cans because I don't have a compressor or spray equipment. If I'm not happy with the result I'll get a local guy to shoot a final coat.
I'd like to get some second opinions on the need to start with bare metal.
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:24 am Post subject:
I'm guessing you've bought an MD Juan body kit (not aware of anyone else making the complete body). If so, I recommend you remove all the primer down to bare metal. I couldn't even get red oxide primer to stick to it. Looked fine when I first did it, but after only a few weeks, it started to peel off in big flakes. Suggest you get the body sandblasted and etch primered.
Just from my experience.......
Owen. _________________ Owen
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
The primer used by MD Juan in the Phillippines is to protect the metal short term during trans oceanic shipment.
You won't find any paints that will adhere to it long term. Do not sand blast body parts. If you must use a blasting media use glass beads. I personally would rather strip it. Wash it really well. Dry it for a day or so and then prep it with the paint manufacturer's recommendations.
A rattle can paint job will be just that a rattle can paint job. It will always embarrass you if you drive near any shows or to a Dairy Queen parking lot. There are plenty of rental outfits who rent compressors and paint spray equipment. You can buy a spray gun for under $50. After spending around $3000 for a tub kit I would spend at least $200 on painting it.
Finally don't paint any of it until you fit it to your frame. The MD Juan tubs are notorious for fit and alignment problems. Fit, cut, bend and drill before you paint! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks for all of the replies. One other item that might be relevant. This body kit was purchased in 2012 and has a red oxide color primer. I have read that they used gray or black primer in the past. Does anyone have direct experience with their parts using the red primer? It seems pretty resistant to scratches, etc. I'm certainly planning on fitting the body before any prep/painting. I am doing this one on a budget, but I want to do it right, and not twice.
Wes, so far I've been using Gillespie spray cans on the under carriage parts that won't show with pretty good success, but your point on using a spray gun for the visible parts makes sense. I just need to figure all that out when I get closer to painting the body.
Joined: May 10, 2010 Posts: 615 Location: North Yorkshire, UK
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:00 pm Post subject:
I second what Wes says about test fitting the body.
Regarding the sandblasting, I got mine done locally; the guy restores vintage sports cars, and does a really good job. He used archifine as a blasting media; it's a very fine aluminium silicate. Providing the blaster knows what he's doing, this will not distort the body.
Paint stripping will work ok, and will likely be cheaper than blasting. Rather than scraping a small bit at a time, I find that hitting the stripper-coated areas with the pressure washer works really well (handy for up inside the hard to reach areas too).
Owen. _________________ Owen
1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
1939 DKW KS200 Motorcycle
MVT # 19406
Regarding the sandblasting, I got mine done locally; the guy restores vintage sports cars, and does a really good job. He used archifine as a blasting media; it's a very fine aluminium silicate. Providing the blaster knows what he's doing, this will not distort the body.
I find it is safer to use the term Bead Blasting rather than Sand Blasting. Sand indicates a desire to use standard coarse sand instead one of the safer medias.
Rattle cans do ok on the small pieces but you will always be able to tell rattle can work on large surfaces. Also your coverage layer thickness is inadequate with rattle cans.
MD Juan has used many shades of primer and my guess it which shade you get is determined by the lowest paint supply vendor bid to MD Juan during that period. Find a local bodyshop with a sociable painter who is willing to discuss the art of painting vehicles with you and ask him to explain the differences between primers, paints, processes with you. Particularly what primer to use with a specific paint and how long after the primer coat goes on must the top coats go on and how much time is allowed between each top coat. We could try to load 10,000 words here but it would benefit you much more to be face to face with the pro and he can easily tell if you are getting his points or not. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Apr 11, 2005 Posts: 174 Location: Coventry, RI
Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:19 pm Post subject:
I used a MD Juan kit with the grey primer. I hand sanded the body and wiped it down with thinner then primed and pained it OD. This was about 5 years ago and I've had no paint issues at all. I did hear they had a primer issue in the past but I think they listened to restorers and fixed that. I hope the newer tubs are better than the one I used. It took a lot of fixing to get it close to what an original is like.
Rick
Using an existing primer which you have no knowledge of it's origin/brand, how long it was on the parts or it's compatibility with the paint you are going to use is risky to say the least. I would not advise anyone to risk their money and time on that adventure. Now if you could get the vendor that sold you the tub to guarantee that primer would work just fine with the paint process you intend to use and that he would warrant that guarantee then by all means go for it if you are a gambler.
The best way to guarantee the success of any paint job is to use quality products that are known to be compatible with each other and use the manufacturer's instructions. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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