Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:37 am Post subject: My latest problem with the M38A1
So, apparently I have a ground somewhere. The batteries seem to constantly be losing a bit of juice. It's not real major, but it's noticeable. I pulled the positive lead off the battery closest to the drive (the one that has cables that go through the firewall), attached a circuit tester to the now unattached positive side of the battery, and the other side to the cable that normally goes from that positive side to the firewall. The tester lit up, which I assumed meant something was grounded. I then went under the dash, and methodically removed each lead coming in from the firewall, to see what was grounded. No matter what I took apart, the circuit tester stayed lit up. I then removed the clamp from the negative lead on the passenger side battery. I touched the circuit tester to the negative lead, and to the negative terminal on the battery. To my surprise, it lit up! Now I was completely confused. I don't think any of this was a factor before I switched from a keyed ignition to a lever one, but I checked each lead on that, and the removal of each one didn't cause the circuit tester light to go out. I'm completely confused, and any help would be much appreciated. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:32 am Post subject: Drain issue
Your drain issue is the starter switch on top of the starter. Common issue with older trucks that have not had this changed in a long time. Carbon trail inside the switch from the arcing causes this to occur. Cleaning it usually does not fix the problem.
John
John's suggestion is correct in most cases. If you did a search on battery drain you would have found one of the many answers I provided on testing for the source of a battery drain. Your method was close but always use the negative cable for the test since this prevent dangerous shorting issues. If the lamp glows then you have a current drain somewhere. From there you proceed to open one circuit at a time until the lamp goes out. The regulator and starter are circuits and must be checked the same way removing each from the system one at a time and watching the lamp. Warning: To prevent accidental shorts, each time you disconnect a circuit be sure to disconnect your test lamp, leave the negative cable disconnected then disconnect the circuit and then reconnect the test lamp.
To isolate the starter, to confirm what John said just, Remove heavy cable # 82 and wire #4 from the starter terminal and bolt or clamp them together. Don't let them short against anything. now what does your test lamp do? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:17 pm Post subject:
I have an internal regulator in my generator. I'll try the starter test, but does the starter get any power when the ignition is switched off? I tried pulling the hot lead to the ignition switch, and the light remained on. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
All you need to do is what I just said about the two leads on the starter. If you think a moment about this:?, the positive battery cable is connected directly to the starter switch. Soooo the switch terminal on the starter is ALWAYS HOT.
Quote:
To isolate the starter, to confirm what John said just, Remove heavy cable # 82 and wire #4 from the starter terminal and bolt or clamp them together. Don't let them short against anything. now what does your test lamp do?
REMEMBER, ALWAYS HAVE THE NEGATIVE CABLE DISCONNECTED WHEN MAKING AND BREAKING CONNECTIONS ON THE POSITIVE SIDE OF EACH CIRCUIT. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:03 am Post subject:
In what I am sure is no surprise to anyone, it was the starter. Thanks John and Wes. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
You mentioned the AC alternator you have. Was the power cable from your alternator connected to the starter switch terminal with #82 and #4? If it was and when you removed only 82 & 4 and the test lamp went out then it still could be the alternator and not the starter. To confirm this remove that alternator power wire from the starter switch and clamp it together with #82 and #4 and see what the lamp does. If the lamp now stays lit then the problem is the alternator. If the lamp stays out the problem is the starter switch.
If the problem is the starter switch then remove the starter to your work bench and remove the switch and open it up and inspect it's parts and cavities.
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:21 am Post subject:
Alright, I checked, still the starter. Didn't John say that cleaning the starter usually doesn't resolve the problem? _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Well if spending money is something you have learned to enjoy then of course just buy a new one. With the spending history on your jeep to date I would think you would try to save a little money here and there for the high price of gas today.
There are rebuild kits for the switch as well so buying an entire $300 starter is not really necessary.
Here's the illustration you wanted for your parking brake.
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:50 am Post subject:
It's not that I enjoy spending money. This Jeep has gone way over my budget. But things keep breaking, and if there's one thing I learned from my last two CJs, trying to polish up and resurrect many old parts usually just leads to problems down the road. It would cost me quite a bit more if I'm stranded 200 miles from home and have to special order a 60 year old 24 volt part than if I just buy a working replacement now while the vehicle is safely in my garage. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
New replacement things that you paid a lot for keep breaking as well! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1740 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:20 am Post subject:
If you do decide to repair the switch pay attention to part L
insulator. These are prone to wear and will contribute to
arcing (i been there). The fibre matl to fab new insulators
can be found at auto-elect rebuilder shops. Cut and fab
them up yourself in 15 min or less. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:02 pm Post subject:
actually, since I've been buying from John at Midwest Military, I haven't had a problem. I got some old gauges from him, they didn't work off the bat, and he refunded my money. Heavier parts like the clutch and rebuilt carburetor I got from him work great. Most of my problems have been with Jungle Jim, Kaiser Willeys, and Novak. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:08 pm Post subject:
John from Midwest had a new starter switch, and it's way cheaper than a whole new starter. It's on the way to me right now. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
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