Road noise

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

My M38 does have transmission second gear issues already. A have a new issue when driving at speed on the hardball, I hear a loud metallic sound almost like a bell. It is not a constant sound and seems to get bad after going fast on the road. Didn't hear it while running slow in 4x4. Sounds like its coming from under the driver not from the engine. The sound is like a metal object being thrown against another metal object that can almost sound like a bell. I thought it might be something in the emergency brake but all looks tight. Checked the drive shafts and they seem to be tight as well? Any ideas? Has no impact on moving or the engine.

wesk · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:20 am Post subject:

Disconnect the rear drive shaft and spin the brake drum. Or remove the drum and check for broken or loose shoes and hardware.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

timjuhl · Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 8:03 pm Post subject: Noise

Check the "Bell Housing." Just kidding..... sorry but I couldn't resist.

Good luck!

Tim
_________________
Tim Juhl
1952 M38A1
1946 Aeronca L16A Army Liaison Aircraft

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

Nope...Dropped the drive shaft last night and removed the emergency brake drum, all looks in good order!! So it's not that...

skyjeep50 · Member Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois

Something rolling around in the tool box?
_________________
1951 M38

wesk · Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:18 am Post subject:

The bolt and pin holes and pivots in UU, R, M, Z, AA, DD & JJ get worn and these parts clatter and ring the big round bell.

When I said spin the brake drum I meant with the rear drive shaft disconnected and then while it is spinning you grasp the handbrake lever rod and shake it up & down and sideways which will shake and rattle the loose actuating arm and linkage and shoes.

If this is too much bother then just remove the drum and shoes and drive it.

The fix for this problem is new parts. Many folks try bandaids like extra springs to maintain more tension between individual moving parts.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

M38, not the A1. Action is to violent for anything in the emergency brake. Guess I will check rear brake drums next.

wesk · Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 12:24 pm Post subject:

My bad on model jeep. I was under the impression you had narrowed down the location of the noise already to the lower center of the jeep. Can you let us know first about where the noise is centered.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

Pretty sure it is the throw out bearing! after another test drive. Although the cable is very lose parked. I don't think tightening it will help? So what now?? The longer I drive it the worse it gets, but it is not constant. Maybe something to do with heat.

wesk · Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:27 pm Post subject:

Are you sure enough it is the throw-out bearing to separate the engine from the tranny? Or do you suspect the throw-out bearing? You can remove the center floor panels and the clutch inspection panel on the bell housing and drive it and listen to see if the bell clanging is truly coming from there.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

Found the noise. Its the bearing shield on the rear transmission behind the drive shaft. I duck taped it and took it for a test drive, the noise was gone. Not sure what causes it or how to stop it?

wesk · Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:56 pm Post subject:

I assume you are referring to item D shield on Item C companion flange about 1 inch behind the brake drum? That shield was originally pressed on the companion flange. You will have to remove the companion flange and if it will not press on and fit tightly throw a few spot welds around it.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

no, its the shield on the rear axle at the end of the drive shaft protecting the bearings. Right behind the yoke. Never had the problem before, maybe there is an increase in vibration from the bad transmission? The shaft is in good order, tight. checking the fluid levels in the rear axle today. Guess I need to drop the shaft and pull those bearing....

wesk · Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:19 pm Post subject:

Same set-up. Item Q shield is pressed on item R yoke. Maybe it was hit by something you ran over?

To access both pinion bearings you'll have to pull the diff carrier. Why do you want to pull the bearings? Have you already determined they are bad?
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

M384X4 · Member Joined: Dec 12, 2012 Posts: 17

I'm going to put that yoke off to explore the cause of that noise. You're right I believe the bearing are fine, I checked the oil level is it ok.

I can turn the sheild by hand without turning the yoke, is that correct? or should the shield be fixed to the yoke? You say pressed which means to me fixed to turn only witht the yoke. Maybe the yoke nut just needs to be tightened?


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