Pulling the Engine

[M384X4]

Book explains the how to pull the whole power train, I just want to pull the engine and drop off the transmission for rebuild. What pit falls do I face with the clutch? Any discriptive guides out there?

What is between the transmission and transfer, will they seperate easily?

[Beacher425]

The civy manual for the univeral jeep describes removing the trans and trany from below, but this assumes a vehicle lift, engine support, and transmision jack. I had my M38a1 into a shop for trans work and thats how they did it. I have never tried to remove drive train as in the manuals. when I have to do trans or trany work again, I will either take it to a shop or maybe remove the tub, I don't know. But remember that the transmission crossmember supports the engine, too. you must support the engine from underneath when removing the trans and trany. the trans and trany can be separated by removing the nut on the rear output shaft and the associated gear. But be carfull not to pull rearward on the trans output shaft or you will pull it loose and drop all the bearings inside. Youtube videos show these bearings and it would be a mess to deal with.

[Bill_F]

I have pulled many transmissions and transfer cases from flatfender jeeps without pulling the motor and without having a lift. If you dont pull the motor you have to make sure you support the motor. To get it out from under the jeep you have to pull the shift tower and the shifters off the the t-case.

[Bretto]

I've pulled my tranny many times (dont ask). It can be dropped out from the bottom easily enough. The way I do it is remove the floor panels then I support the engine. Remove anything else that would get hung up (shafts, speedo cable, etc). Then I have a beam to hang the assembly from as well as supporting it from underneath with a jack. Remove the bell housing to block bolts and cross member bolts then slowly work it back out of the flywheel then drop the assembly down.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[M384X4]

No, as I mentioned above I want to pull the engine then drop off the transmission. I am worried about the clutch cable, how do you reconnect it? Any tricks? and how do you remove the internal nut between the transmission and the transfer?

I found some information on the G503 site pulling a MB engine and assume there isn't much difference.

[Bretto]

Are looking to do something with the engine by removing it? It sounded from your 1st post that you just wanted to get the tranny/trans out.

Anyway with the cable, that is easy to remove and place. It just nests in a ball recess on the clutch fork that you release by changing the cable length enough that it will come free. Just watch the clutch fork, it can fall to the bottom of the bellhouse during reassembly. You will see how it all works when the cases are seperated, its simple.

The clutch and pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel and will go with the engine when pulled.

The internal nut you are talkin about is behind the access plate on the back of the transfer case. You take that off along with the gear. You also have to remove a series of external bolts also to seperate the cases.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

[skyjeep50]

Removing the power plant from a M-series military jeep is pretty easy. The engine, trans, transfer case and accessories are made to be pulled as a unit. That is why a M38/M38A1 has a lifting hook installed on the top of the engine, support rods for the radiator plus, in some models, a hinged front grill. Features a civy jeep does not have. You can, of course, pull just the engine or the trans/transfer but that involves supporting the element that was left in the jeep. It also means the engine and trans will have to be separated (and rejoined) while in the vehicle with limited access. No doubt that can be done but it is a whole lot easier if the power train is on the floor or a bench top where everything can be reached easily. Unhooking the clutch cable is simple as already described - take off the access panel on top of the bell housing to see the ball end of the cable and clutch fork. You will need an engine hoist but those are not very expensive and maybe someone can loan you one for an hour or so. Actual liftng the engine out will take about 20 min. tops. One person can remove a power plant by themselves but when putting it back in, it helps to have another set of hands. Good luck with your project!
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1951 M38

[skyjeep50]

Power plant ready to install. Trans rebuilt, engine rebuilt, generator rebuilt, new clutch, new pilot bushing and throw out bearing, radiator cleaned and painted, new seals, plug wires and hoses, painted and buffed. At the back of the trans you can see a white string - that's to keep the clutch cable in place so it doesn't fall off of the clutch fork while the engine is installed. All stand up bench top work.


Putting the engine in the M38, sorry for the bad quality. It's a tight fit but lifting the power plant by the back hook puts the engine at the right angle to install without too much difficulty.

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1951 M38

[M384X4]

Sounds like it is easier to remove the transmission / transfer rather than pulling the engine. Think I will go that route if I can still do the work on the clutch. Guess I can sit in the whole of the floor pans and do the work once the trans is out.

[skyjeep50]

Ok, its been posted before, but taking the engine out whole is pretty easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgwF8mdQwlw
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1951 M38

[wesk]

Pulling the entire power plant is done for military quick change purposes and when a civvy owner has work to do on all three sections. If you only need to work the clutch then as a minimum you open the floor and pull the tranny/transfer as a unit and separate them on the bench. It is much easier to pull the tranny/transfer when you have a hoist to stand under. I didn't like pulling them lying on the floor on my back 50 years ago and I can guarantee you I don't do it today either. If I have a hoist, I'll do it otherwise I pull the power plant and then work on the parts that need work and while it's all out in front of me and very easy to work on I clean up and inspect the rest and I clean out the engine bay and inspect it. Then repair anything I found needing work with very little back pain and throw the power plant back in.

It's your jeep, your back and your choice.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php