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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Clutch problem
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Clutch problem

 
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C5loadmaster
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Joined: Jan 12, 2013
Posts: 29
Location: Clinton, CT

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:00 pm    Post subject: Clutch problem Reply with quote

This past Saturday we put my rebuilt engine to my 1953 M38A1 back in the Jeep. My engine rebuilder put a new clutch disc, pressure plate and pilot bushing in and I put in a new throw out bearing and support it rides on.

Problem is now the throw out bearing just barely contacts the pressure plate fingers when the clutch pedal is about an inch from the floor boards. The cable
Has about a 1/4" left to tighten up but will not get me a good pedal.

Am I missing something obvious or has someone experienced the same problem. I did read a 2011 thread where someone was adjusting the pressure plate to get the fingers out farther. I've never messed with adjusting a pressure plate in all the clutches I've done on non jeeps because they are set from the factory.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 15074
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First insure:

1-The throwout bearing and carrier is the same length as the old one.

2-Did you reinstall the clutch cross shaft with the long arm against the bell housing?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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C5loadmaster
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Joined: Jan 12, 2013
Posts: 29
Location: Clinton, CT

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The carrier and throw out looked the same but I did not put them side by side after I pressed it on the carrier. Now I am doubting myself. I think I can maybe check that again from the top inspection cover.

Clutch cross shaft? Is that the arm that hold the carrier? Clutch cable was in the arm and arm on the pivot point. We pulled the engine and left the tranny in the jeep so no linkage was disassembled or adjusted when we put the engine back in.
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps I overlooked the correct first question I should have asked. Did the clutch release system function correctly before you worked on it?


Short arm on the left and long arm on the right.


Has the clutch release arm slipped off the fulcrum? Have you installed a longer then original clutch release cable?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
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Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about the pressure plate itself. Maybe the fingers are not set right and too far in.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a remote possibility and one that is always checked at time of installation by professional shops. To check it now requires removal. The items I have listed can be addressed without removal and that is why I am suggesting them first. Wink
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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C5loadmaster
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Joined: Jan 12, 2013
Posts: 29
Location: Clinton, CT

PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Because the engine did not run when I got the vehicle, the clutch pedal felt "normal" with the travel and where I could feel it making contact. All the linkages looked ok for wear and adjustment. I think at this point I have to go back to square one and pull the engine. This time it will be pictures of the suspected pressure plate while still mounted on the flywheel, pics of the throwout bearing on the fork and then remove both for bench pictures and to compare all the old parts with the new parts. On installation my motor mounts were shot so I need to order new ones and the only thing I have to unbolt is the exhaust pipe from the manifold.
I have removing the bellhousing bolts down to about 20 minutes so should have it out quickly.

Thanks for all the trouble shooting input and I will report back with more defined intel.
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artificer
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Joined: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 206
Location: Gold Coast Australia

PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not be pulling the engine yet.
The cross shaft ears or levers should be close to vertical when everything is set up properly [this is not shown in the picture].
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John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
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