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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Flooded YS637
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Flooded YS637
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The kit came saturday. Correct gasket set, WRONG needle valve.
Tony put me on the line direct with his supplier-no he said, she said-
no who's fault is it-no BS-the correct valve is on it's way. Both guys
treated the problem as urgent. Good folks. Will have the valve soon.

As i posted earlier the fuel pump is at 4psi when cranked w/starter
with ign off. I stuck my W-O back on this weekend (dang i hated
to do that!!) to get it running,
then tee'd into the fuel line just for fun and my meter
runs 4psi @ idle up to 4.75psi @ higher rpm. Just a FYI.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a


Last edited by RICKG on Mon May 20, 2013 2:12 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope it works out for ya. It's good you have that W-O as back up. I'm sure it's always eager to jump aboard.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya but the W-O looks kinda dumb hooked up to the fording snorkle Embarassed
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the correct spring loaded valve yesterday, this particular one has the
black plastic point on the valve. The one that came out of the YS637 was
all metal-no plastic. I think the ones with the plastic tip may seal better (i hope). Got it installed and float adjusted, yanked the W-O back off and
reinstalled the YS637. Purrin like a kitten again, hope i can keep it that way. Hats off to Tony @ Then and Now and his supplier for treating the
incorrect valve problem with a sense of urgency.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16258
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are Delrin tips.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Delrin.. got it..
The valve i replaced did not have the delrin tip. Closer
inspection with a magnifying glass revealed an uneven
wear pattern where the tip contacted the seat. Just a faint
wear line about 270 deg around the circumference, i would
have thought that any visible wear pattern would show
360 deg around the tip. Perhaps the tip was seating unevenly.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16258
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the check needle and the seat are concentric with each other during operation then the wear pattern should be 360. Bent parts, loose parts will often lead to odd wear patterns. The 270 deg mark shows you have 90 degrees of no contact which was leaking and overfilling the bowl. Now what you do not know yet is the 270 degree pattern caused by misalignment, a worn check needle or an oval shaped seat? You can verify the contact pattern by applying a light smear of prussian blue to the seat then carefully assemble the float and valve needle and with the air horn right side up apply very light pressure to seat the needle in the seat.

The new style delrin tips are OK but are not the best choice in some applications. For the jeep they should do just fine.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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idahojeep
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Joined: May 25, 2013
Posts: 1
Location: SE Idaho

PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just reviewed the discussion on this forum and believe I have experienced something similar. I have a M38A1 that also had been running good until the other day when I heard a squeal under the hood (like a bearing that is starting to fail) so I grabbed the throttle linkage and revved it three times very quickly to see if it would change the squeal. By the time I closed the hood and started driving it started running rough. By the time I drove a mile back to the house it was running really bad to the point of back firing a couple of times. When we pulled the plugs one was fouled. After cleaning and adjusting the gap a little tighter we tried again only to have it running rough again after a few good revs. I believe my next step will be to open up the carb and see what I can find. Any other words of advice for what I should be looking for?
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jeeperjoe
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Joined: Apr 19, 2013
Posts: 105

PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was looking at one of the vintage carburetor repair sites the other day and their guru mentioned that float needle valves have long used viton tips but that recently those tips had started to earn a bad reputation for leaking. He said the problem wasn't the viton tips but the fact that manufacturer's had in the last few years, quit polishing the jets that the tip seats in and that the jets frequently had burrs in them that prevented the needles from seating properly. His suggestion was to get a small smooth ball bearing and drop it into the jet and then to use a hammer and a small flat nose punch to tap it firmly. He said that that would flatten out the burrs and round out the needle valve seat in the jet. Take out the ball bearing and assemble the carburetor and it should then work properly with no leaking.

It's certainly easy enough to do and wouldn't cost anything so I'd try it before rebuilding or replacing the carburetor.

FWIW, I have no experience with delrin in carburetors but I've used it for lots of other things and personally I would think that it's too hard to seat properly with only the light force of a fuel float.
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TomM
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Joined: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 458
Location: Rhode Island

PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 4:07 am    Post subject: flooding Reply with quote

Rick,
take a look at the diaphragms you removed and look for tears or a pinhole. When a diaphragm goes bad or if a diaphragm seats improperly during re-assembly it will cause flooding.
I'm interested to know the exact source of your problem. carb


Tom
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Sat Jun 01, 2013 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: flooding Reply with quote

TomM wrote:
Rick,
take a look at the diaphragms you removed and look for tears or a pinhole. When a diaphragm goes bad or if a diaphragm seats improperly during re-assembly it will cause flooding.
I'm interested to know the exact source of your problem. carb


Tom

Tom, i replaced the needle valve assy only and the problem's solved.
The rest of the kit is on the shelf in reserve. Rick
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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