Drag Link / Bell Crank Repair...

[OKCM38CDN]

I purchased a Drag Link kit today and am thinking that I should rebuild the Bell crank also... (the drag link canvas/cover on the fron won't stay in place) Thoughts...

At higher speeds I have a bit of play in the steering, not a lot but enough that if you are not paying attention you might wander...

Thanks in advance...

[Bob_C]

Hey Hal,

The rubber cover + plate on the M38A1's draglink is the same darn way. Wont stay in place. Poor design if you ask me. I wire tied mine to the draglink, seems to work well.
_________________
Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056

[wesk]

Hal,
A very close detailed inspection of all the linkage and gearbox with a helper moving the steering wheel while you grasp and isolate each part one at a time will make your decision quite simple.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[OKCM38CDN]

Well, I spent last evening (about 6 hrs) and got the drag link and bell crank replaced... boy what a job... Incorrect tools and lack of experience...

The drag link springs and bushings were fairly well worn, and the bell crank bearings had some grease in them but were dry... So all is back together and I will grease evrything up in the morning (Day off) and give it a test drive...

I can see where a press is help full in the shop had to improvise getting the bearings out and in again, also a tie rod fork is in order...

Thanks for the replies...

[Ryan_Miller]

Hal,

Let us know how your first test drive goes on the new steering stuff.

I am replacing all of mine with new stuff as I go, so I am hoping to avoid going back in.

Good Luck!

PS: thanks for the vent tubing!
_________________
Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010

[Ryan]

When tightening the drag link springs up, how tight should they be?

[PeteL]

Tighten up the big screw/plug at each end, then back them off a little bit, about one-quarter to one-half a turn, until you can align the cotter pins.

I think the bell crank end is supposed to be about a half-turn, the pitman end is one-quarter. Someone better informed may be able to confirm the exact specification.

Good luck.

Pete[/i][/list]

[OKCM38CDN]

Test drive went great, a lot of play was taken out of the system, and it is easier to steer (less wandering as I call it)...

I tightened the drag link as enough to get the cotter pins in... There was not a lot of extra in mine... as it was I had to force the balls on the end of the pitman arm and bell crank into the drag link cause the springs were so tight... everything tightened up to where they should be and works fine...

I lubed it up this morning and away I went...

Fixing a wandering piece of foam in the seat and will be ready for the parade in the morning...

Thanks all for the replies...

Ryan, no problem, have materials for more should anyone need them...

[PeteL]

Hal,

I hope you tighened those screw plugs all the way down to make solid contact, then backed them out just a hair. The ball ends need to be mechanically "locked in" the socket, not just under spring pressure, as I recall it.

It's been a long time since I did one, can anyone else confirm this?

I believe the springs are meant to be almost fully compressed and only take out the tiny bit of residual play. The 'socket' and screw plug do the real work.

Don't want that drag link popping off when you hit a bump on the highway!

Just checking...

Pete

[OKCM38CDN]

By the time I got them Tightened up, the screw ends would not go any further, the new parts were longer than the old ones were due to wear...

I paid close attention to that detail, the drag link falling out would be a bad thing...