Distributor won't turn to adjust timing

[Mike_B]

I wanted to adjust the timing on my '53 M38A1 F134, it's currently set at TDC, so I loosened the clamp bolt and tried to rotate the distributor and it won't budge...thinking the clamp hold down bolt might have the clamp in a bind I loosened that as well. Still won't move. It has an aluminum Prestolite Distributor and am wondering if the aluminum has corroded into the block. If that's the case, how do I free it up without distroying it?

Thanks,

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[4x4M38]

Mike,
Will it turn in any direction or just won't turn in one
direction?
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Mike_B]

It won't turn in either direction. I'm going to put a little heat on the block to see if that helps...I'll let you know if I'm successful or not.

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[Xamon]

The distributor being seized to the block by different metal corrosion is very common. It can also be a very challenging problem. Get some very good penetrant on it every day for weeks and hope for the best. If you get it out put some decent anti-sieze before putting it back.
_________________
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Mike_B]

Thanks Xamon, I'll keep working at it...

If that fails can it be driven out from the bottom if the oil pan is removed (I need to replace the pan anyway as it's missing the skid plate)?

Thanks,

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[oilleaker1]

If you pull the oil pump out of the block, you can hit the inner shaft of the distributor only. I wouldn't do that. it ends up shearing the roll pin and most likely ruining the distributor. You can not get to the outer part of the distributor shaft from below.

Sounds like you have a aftermarket prestolite distributor and not a 24 volt autolite correct?

If it is, then try a couple of large ring gear clamps tightened around the circumference of the body, soak profusely with penetrating oil like Kroil, pb blaster, acetone and ATF mix etc., and tap back and forth on the clamps with a hammer. You also can try to get a couple of wedges under the distributor base and the block and wedge it up. If you can get it to move, you will eventually get it. You can also break the top off and leave the stub in the block. Be careful. Drilling it out is about a 5 hour job, and then you have to clean out the shavings. Ask me how I know this!

[Mike_B]

I'm giving it a shot of penetrating fluid 2 or 3 times a day and I'm tapping on the side down low with a 6oz hammer to help the penerating fluid do it's thing.

Yes, it's a 12v Prestolite...timing probably hasn't been adjusted in at least 20 years and the Jeep has been outside under a tarp for the past 17 years. The last time it was driven on a regular bassis was sometime in the late 90's...

I've got time...don't need to rush and break something.

Thanks for all of the tips!

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[Mike_B]

I GOT IT OUT...Yeah!

After three days of penetrating fluid and tapping I decided to put the 460 Channel Lock plyers on it again. While lightly twisting with the plyers I started tapping the side and I got movenent...worked on it for about more 10 minutes and was able to pull it out completely.

I took the top plate out of the distrubutor, cleaned the inside of the housing, check and lubed the counter weights, wet sanded the shaft housing that slides into the block, put anyi-sieze on it and re-installed it. The engine started right up and I set the timing!

Big relief getting that fixed...

Thanks for everyone's support and Big thanks to w30bob for fixing me up with a can of Fluid Film Penetrating Fluid...I think that did it

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[w30bob]

Glad that worked out for you Mike! Good talking to you on Saturday.

Regards,
Bob

[Xamon]

glad to hear it went well.
_________________
Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[oilleaker1]

What is fluid film penetrating oil please? Oilly

[4x4M38]

FFPF?


Or,
https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=cIWDWrq1H4rx_Aafu69g&q=fluid+film+penetrating+oil&oq=fluid+film+penetrading+&gs_l=mobile-gws-hp.1.0.0i13k1j0i22i30k1.2231.13220.0.16467.32.29.3.7.7.0.437.7839.1j2j15j9j1.29.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-hp..1.31.6140.1..0j41j0i131k1j0i10k1j30i10k1j33i160k1.607.wTPjrEaPFbs

I had no idea. New guy comes up with something new!
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[Mike_B]

Yup, the link 4x4M38 provided is what I used...

Mike B
_________________
Mike B
1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer

[oilleaker1]

Looks like it stays in contact longer than other penetrants. I may try some. John

[w30bob]

Hi Guys,

Fluid Film is pretty impressive. I've been using it for a few years now. Works really well as a penetrating oil as it "foams" slightly on contact, the bubbles pushing it into the smallest cracks and crevices. Also works well as a preservative on bare metal. Best to find it online, as locally it costs much more. Good stuff.

regards,
bob