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OKCM38CDN Member
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
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Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:53 pm Post subject: F-134 Flywheel Bolt Question... |
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I pulled the power train on my M-38A1 (it is under full teardown for restoration) and then separated the engine from the bell housing and found I needed to pull the fly wheel to mount the engine on an engine stand...
In the process one of the tapered dowel bolts pulled out... I know I will need to replace this with a regular bolt...
My question is will I need to pull / loosen the crankshaft to do this... looks like it at first glance, I just want to be sure...
Thanks in advance... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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Bretto Member
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:05 am Post subject: |
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If I remember correctly, you can get to those by removing the rear crank bearing cap. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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skyjeep50 Member
Joined: Feb 20, 2007 Posts: 606 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: |
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Yes, you can remove the bearing cap and have clearance to replace the flywheel bolt. I had to do the same thing on a rebuilt L-134 motor I bought for my M38.
_________________ 1951 M38 |
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16249 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 8:50 am Post subject: |
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Quote: | In the process one of the tapered dowel bolts pulled out... I know I will need to replace this with a regular bolt... |
Unless you have mixed a flywheel with a different crank you retain the two tapered dowel bolts. If the crank and flywheel are not factory original to each other then a dowel bolt kit must be purchased and a pair of accurately drilled match holes must be drilled through the crank and flywheel to accept the special stepped dowel bolts. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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OKCM38CDN Member
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:26 am Post subject: |
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Wes,
I pulled the flywheel with my hands, No tools used other than pulling the nuts... Wiggled the flywheel back and forth and this bolt came out with the flywheel...
it was wallowed out and pulled right thru the crank flange... the other tapered bolt is doing the same thing, it is about half way thru the flange or appears to be...
I was figuring on just getting a proper sized Grade 5 bolt and replacing the one dowel...
Was not planning on tearing the engine down... was told it had just been rebuilt... But after seeing some of the things I have maybe a good inspection is in order...
I will try to post photos later today...
BTW: this M-38A1 is the one I purchased two years ago from the gent in Wisconsin...
I have a rebuild thread going... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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billybob Member
Joined: Apr 20, 2011 Posts: 254 Location: mid missouri
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:59 pm Post subject: flywheel bolt |
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Is it possible they used the smaller tapered dowel when it should have been the straight 9/16 dowel? The crank and flywheel I'm using takes the straight 9/16 dowel. [ I'm calling it 9/16 because that is the closest measurement I could get.] I got the two dowels from Peter Debella - NOS. |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16249 Location: Wisconsin
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oilleaker1 Member
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 971 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:23 am Post subject: |
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It sounds like a previous owner put in the wrong dowel bolts for sure. I've been able to change or install the flywheel bolts with just the oil pan pulled. Hope you get lucky and the crank flange holes are still ok for the correct straight shank bolts! John |
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OKCM38CDN Member
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:25 am Post subject: |
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In my SNL it lists the tapered dowels. However a PO could have used a different Crank shaft... the bolt that is left in the shaft does not seat properly...
I spent the day yesterday taking the transfer case / transmission apart to get them soaking in degreaser in prep for rebuild...
I will take photos today and post them... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16249 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 8:48 am Post subject: |
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Xamon,
Look a little closer at that page in the M38A1 manual. The bolt you ID'd 8328311 is 2/3 rds the way down page 38 and is clearly labeled Bolt, dowell 3/8" but you are not paying attetnion to the next higher assembly above it which is HOUSING, flywheel assy.. You missed the Flywheel assy 1/3 rd down that same page which lists Pin, Dowel tapered.
The assembly underlined in red is the core of this discussion. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Xamon Member
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
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