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32sbct
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Joined: May 09, 2011
Posts: 166
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 Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: Questions on clutch linkage |
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I am working on the clutch linkage for my 1952 M38. Take a look at the first picture below. You can see the linkage that goes to the clutch pedal. The ORD 9 on page 50 shows that this linkage should be a rod like the one shown below my linkage. Is the type I have correct or should I be using the rod?
My second question is on assembling the bar. In the picture below it shows two felt washers (Ord 9 shows one) that were inside along with the solid retainer. Is it assembled by installing the solid retainer to the depth of the cotter pin? Also is there some lubricant or grease that goes in there? Any advice will be appreciated.
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jimm
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Joined: Nov 01, 2011
Posts: 199
Location: Escondido, CA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: Questions on clutch linkage |
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| 32sbct wrote: | | Is the type I have correct or should I be using the rod? |
You should use the rod with an L-bend at each end and cotter pins to retain it.
| 32sbct wrote: |
Is it assembled by installing the solid retainer to the depth of the cotter pin? |
It needs to go in far enough that there is room for the felt washer between the solid retainer and the end of ball stud. More makes room for more grease and doesn't hurt anything.
| 32sbct wrote: | | Also is there some lubricant or grease that goes in there? |
Yes, you should lube it up good with chassis grease after putting in the felt washers and retainers. The seals ("C" in Fig. 02-2) are supposed to keep the grease in and water and dirt out. These joints see a lot of use from clutching, and along with the ends of the rod (you can see the wear on those in your picture) are the only pivots that I can think of on the vehicle that don't have zerk fittings. An engineering oversight, in my opinion. Fortunately they aren't too difficult to access or expensive to replace.
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts |
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32sbct
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Joined: May 09, 2011
Posts: 166
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Thanks Jim, thats a big help. |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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Yes the rod with the 2 bends is the stock configuration but the clevis ended rod is a more superior set up in my opinion.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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jam51m38cdn
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Joined: Feb 06, 2008
Posts: 69
Location: Findlay, Ohio
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| Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:28 am Post subject: |
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Replace the bellcrank and the rod, some people don`t realize the holes in the bellcrank get elongated and the rod wears down also. Someone probably drilled out the bellcrank and made a new rod with clevises.  |
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45auto
Moderator
Joined: Apr 06, 2005
Posts: 148
Location: Georgia
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| Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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I have seen several clutch rods with the clevis set up like yours in the pictures on some M38A1s and have hear them refer to as late model parts. All have looked like yours and they all had that "home made" look to them. Looks to me when the original rod with the two 90 degree bends wore out, they cut the ends off and welded one clevis on and threaded the other end of the rod to use the clutch rod clevis and kept a jeep in service. With the clutch cable and clutch rod siting side by side, you can see where the clevises came from. It would not surprise me that the military had plenty of clevises and no clutch rods!!
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Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6 |
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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My M38 has the same yoke ended actuating rod.
Brian |
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