Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 7:34 am Post subject: Topbow measurement
I'm re-doing some topbows that have some bad bends and whatnot that I will cut out. I will be grafting in new tubing to replace these bad sections. I was hoping someone could measure either the outside or inside width, whatever is easier, right below 90* curves so I know how wide these need to end up being.
Thanks,
Brett _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 8:33 am Post subject: top bow measurement
I too am interested in the measurements. I am wondering if it is possible to fabricate them at home. It would certainly be a lot cheaper. If anyone has any plans or drawings it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1740 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:52 am Post subject:
If memory serves, the folding section of the bows I gave you
was in good shape and the stationary portion is what was
cut and bent. Get me the width and overall ht at the folding section
when folded and i'll confirm it against my good set. We know that
both sections should fold flat against each other and be same folded
ht.
Kendall's 55" dim is confirmed.. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Last edited by RICKG on Sun Sep 01, 2013 9:59 am; edited 1 time in total
Several years ago I posted five bow drawings on the G503 site and asked for measurements. I got several replies with measurements. However I cannot locate my copy of the three drawings. They were loaded on "My Pic Gallery.COM and were lost when the web site collapsed. Did anyone here copy them?
Here are the replies:
Quote:
Could someone provide the measurements listed using the photos as a guide. Email me your answers. Please indicate weather your bows are original or reproduction, M38 or M38A1 and if repop do you know who produced them.
Drawing #1
A-
B-
C-
D-
E-
F-
G-
H-
I-
J-
K-
L-
M-
Drawing #2
A-
B-
Drawing #3
A-
B-
C-
D-
E-
F-
Drawing #4
A-
B-
Drawing #5
A-
B-
I have an NOS top bow manufactured in the late 50s if I remember correctly. Here are some dimensions.
Drawing #1
A-1"
B-1-1/4"
C-It's tough to locate the lower end of C since it's both tapered and curved there. C+E is 2-1/4"
D-
E-
F-2"
G-installed on Jeep at this time, can't measure
H-installed on Jeep at this time, can't measure
I-
J-installed on Jeep at this time, can't measure
K-installed on Jeep at this time, can't measure
L-
M-1-5/8"
Drawing #2
A-32-1/4"
B-installed on Jeep at this time, can't measure
Drawing #3
A-
B-
C-
D-1"
E-1-1/8"
F-1"
Drawing #4
A-57"
B-
Drawing #5
A-
B-
_________________
Bob W. Monticello, NY. 1952 CJ3A, 1952 M38, 1950 CJV-35/U
Let me know if any of these do not make sense or you need an explanation.
Original bows for 1953 M38A1
Here's what I measured (all in inches):
Dwg 1:
A - 1
B - 1.25
C - 1.75
D - 3
E - 0.5
F - 2
G - 5.5
H - 3
I - 0.25
J - 0.75
K - 0.5
L - 1.125
M - 1.625
Dwg 2:
A - 32.5
B - 39.5
I added the following:
C - 3 (Inside radius of bend in bow tubing at top of bows - same on both)
D - 25.75 (End of bow to ctr of hole for top bow rod on outboard side of short bow)
E - 0.375 (Top bow rod hole diameter)
Dwg 3:
A - 1.5
B - 1.5
C - Approx 1 - very hard to tell
D - 1
E - 1.25 (assume this was to edge of tube, not entire bracket length)
F - 1
Dwg 4:
A - 57
B - 39.5
Dwg 5:
A - 57
B - 32.5
_________________
Troy Davis
1953 USMC M38A1 (Work-in-progress)
Rebuild Blog: http://troy-m38a1.blogspot.com/
What are Measurements for the forward bow for the support rod attachment points for 1952 M38 with a repro bow? Thanks!
The distance Center of Rivet to center of Hole is 25-3/16" on a NOS set of bows. the hole should be as tight as possible. Use a drill press if possible in order to get the holes at right angles, it will lessen the chance of having the rods work out. The Rivet is also 2-13/16" above the edge of the bodyith the bows installed. I eyeballed horizontal, and it appeared the rod was a bit higher at the rear, the relation of the set of front and rear springs is also a factor.
_________________
Jeep Mechanic Joel Gopan
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:04 am Post subject:
Thanks all.
Rick, you are correct that the it was the stationary bars were cut and shortened but both bars were a bit bent on the top sections causing them to be short in the overal width.
The couple measurements in Wes' post of 57", I would assume would be the outside width since the tubing is 1".
Am glad I asked because I was trying to square up the 90* bends then measure the distance between the straight sections. I was on getting 56 3/4" on the outside or 54 3/4" inside.
Another question I have is about some (6) holes in the bars. An I am thinking most are stock, but want to make sure. Is there supposed to be 2 (#1) smaller holes about 3/16" on the top on both bars, just before the radius on the drivers side? And on the just the folding bow, there are 4, about 1/4" holes, 2 (#3) on the sides about 6" from the top and 2 (#2) on the forward facing edge about 4" from the top. I am not to sure about the 2 forward facing holes but certain the side holes are for the side supporting rods. Can someone confirm these holes.
_________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 8:29 am Post subject:
A side note, I was just looking at weebee's site and they make mention there were 2 designs for the side support rods. One that the rod would go thru the top bow bar using 2 holes, and use used a cotter pin to hold the rod on place. The other design used only one hole and the side supporting rod was bent beyond a 45* to lock it in.
_________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Last edited by Bretto on Thu May 29, 2014 6:55 am; edited 1 time in total
Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1740 Location: SO IDAHO
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 9:03 am Post subject:
I have one hole #1 centered on the outside rad on the pass side
folding bow, it is aprox 1/4" dia and appears stock, punched not
drilled. #3 is your 3/8 dia rod support hole, 25" centered from the
pivot point. #2 does not exist on my bows. _________________ keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:40 am Post subject:
I rechecked and the #1 holes are on my drivers side. The #2 holes do not look factory but the #3 holes do
I am continually impressed of the quality of time passed, this time I noticed there is OD paint on the inside of the tubing. Who would do that nowadays? _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:53 am Post subject:
I don't know why but I was never able to get the angled rod to stay in place. They kept wanting to pop out. I redid my rods with 90*s and drilled the holes all the way thru and cotter pinned them. _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
The bows must be strapped tightly towards the rear to retain the door top rods the old fashioned way. Usually your problem would be caused by the top bows have inadequate tension aft due top loose rear straps or the top being shrunk to tight not allowing the bows to constantly apply pressure aft. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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