Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:03 pm Post subject: cat eye lights
as I'm removing the lights from the grill section, (I have to replace the wiring it is shot) and away I noticed the cat eyes are made of what looks like aluminum, I thought aluminum was in short supply back then. Is this correct?
also one of the screws is broken off right at the housing.
Does anyone have a good way of getting it out? man that thing is so small and down in there, it is hard to get anything close enough to extract it.
well I tried attaching the photos again hopefully the right way this time
1-No aluminum was not in short supply in the 50's.
2-The motor pool troops often overlooked the need for anti-seize on steel screws they threaded into aluminum housings. If you don't have a small stump to get a vice grip on and soak with penetrating fluid then the drill is your last hope. It is often simpler to drill the hole for the next size tap IE 8-32 drilled to fit 10-24 or 10-32 tap.
Photo posting:
You had the [img][/img] mixed up, this one [img] has to be in front of the url for the photo and this one [/img] has to be at the end of the url.
Usually your photos that you upload to your on line album will be stored in the album in three sizes: Thumb (smallest), Sized (medium) and Original (full size). It is common practice to use the medium photos in your posts. If you open your album you will be looking at Thumbnails of all your photos. If you use the url for this thumbnail then it will show up in you post as the Thumb (smallest) size. On the other hand if you left click on your thumb the medium version of that photo will open. Now you can right click on this photo and copy it's url to your post. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:59 am Post subject:
Steve,
Start spraying that thing daily with Liquid Wrench and store sitting up so the liquid runs into the thread area.
Get a drill that is smaller than the screw, and matching easy-out.
Lots of times you can find them together in a kit.
After several days of Liquid Wrench duty, center punch the screw if possible, and drill into the screw as far as you dare. Then push or lightly tap the easy out into the hole. It has left hand threads that grip the inside of the hole as you try and thread the screw out.
The idea is to get it to move at all. If so, Liquid Wrench and let it sit some more. Then back to the easy out.
If you are lucky it will eventually come out.
If not, then Wes' solution is your choice unless you just opt for another bucket.
The easy out is not a very good option unless you are an experienced wrench bender and have a really good feel for the metal when it starts to yield just before breaks. Once you break off the hardened steel easy out in there your options are done. I quit using them years ago. I drill the screw out with a bit size that leaves only the threads of the screw engaged in the female threads, Then I pick the remaining threads out and run a thread chaser into the hole. Note I said thread chaser and not tap. There's a difference and you should have both on the shelf working these old vehicles. The penetrant and heat can help in your initial attempts to free the screw but when those options are expended just select the correct drill size which is usually the recommended tap drill size for that screw size and thread pitch. A drill press becomes very useful here.
Being an aircraft mechanic since the 60's I have plenty of experience around the corrosion and seizing of dissimilar fastener material in soft metal threaded holes. It appears top be an easy task but the strength of the new corrosion induced joint will amaze you. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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