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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38 Jeep Restoration MC21002
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M38 Jeep Restoration MC21002
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16225
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the welsh plug at the rear of the block and drive the cam out forward with a large brash drift.


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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wadefreedomvehicles
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Joined: Jun 11, 2015
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Location: Orem, Utah

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is still installed in the vehicle.
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Wade Stout
www.freedomvehicles.org

Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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wesk
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Posts: 16225
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is certainly a problem but after you use up all the alternatives from the front the rear is all that is left.

Quote:
I tried to pull the cam, but it is really stuck, so any tips on how to pull the cam


I assume you have tried all the standard tricks from the front to remove the shaft. This would be a good point to tell us what you have tried so far?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php


Last edited by wesk on Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3440
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep,
More info would be helpful.

If the guard and radiator are out, and bell housing, trans and tranny and flywheel are out, no problem.

If no to any of those then yes I can see some problems.
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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45auto
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Joined: Apr 06, 2005
Posts: 147
Location: Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the engine is still in the frame---you will have to hold the lifters in the up position or they will drop down locking the cam in place.

Try lifting up the lifters to their highest point and tying them in place (a small hose clamp around each of the lifters will work) and the cam should slide right out. This will require having the valves out, which you have already done.

Normally the engine is upside down when installing or removing the lifters and cam.
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Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wade, I have to ask now: Are you using the manual? If it isn't open to the page on removing the cam and laying on the fender it needs to be. You asked a question on the previous page about pulling the cam with the gear on.

Quote:
How do I pull the cam? does it come out with the gear? what is the best way to get the cam out?


This is why I asked about the manual. You must use the manuals and in this case TM 9-1804A (Engine manual) needs to be open and on your fender so you can follow the steps on pages 47 thru 49 Paragraph 39 "Removal of camshaft gear and camshaft" I posted the illustration of the proper way to pull the gear on the previous page of this post. The gear comes off first. Then the thrust plate and then get the lifters, away from the cam shaft and get the fuel pump lever out of the way. Then if it's stuck you do have more serious issues then you are willing to believe.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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wadefreedomvehicles
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Joined: Jun 11, 2015
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Location: Orem, Utah

PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will go and read through the tm and print out the pages, I have not done anything to try to pull it out yet, I didn't want to jack anything up, that is why I came here first, I have the lifters set up with zip ties on them.
Before I pull the cam, I do need to set the timing, correct?
I will try to get some pics on here of what it looks like currently.
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Wade Stout
www.freedomvehicles.org

Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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wadefreedomvehicles
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally figured out how to get the cam out without pulling the engine, forgot the bolts on the mounting plate...
Rolling Eyes
Cam is out, head has been cleaned, pan removed and cleaned, underside sprayed cleaned, top of block clean.
We just need to remove a broken stud, and then put it all back together.
So far so good, hope we dont run into any more snags. Very Happy
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Wade Stout
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Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head Stud Out as of two days ago.
Getting 2 new head studs and then the reassembly begins
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Wade Stout
www.freedomvehicles.org

Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to see your back on track and getting back to work on it.
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
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wadefreedomvehicles
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the Engine reassembled and going to fire it up later today.
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Wade Stout
www.freedomvehicles.org

Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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wadefreedomvehicles
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took it to Freedom Vehicles Military Outpost and finished a few things at the event and got it running and drove it around until the radiator decided to not be sealed. Now I need to take the radiator out and get it to the shop.
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Wade Stout
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Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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wadefreedomvehicles
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, A lot has happened since the last post.
Got a new engine that I will be pulling out a generator and replacing gaskets and then installing at a later date. Reason for this is the head on the current engine is all cracked up, so I covered it in JB weld for now, and the inside cylinder walls of the engine are thin. The engine block overall isn't the greatest. So I got a replacement.

Radiator came back from repair and was installed. After I installed it was when I learned of the head cracks and leaks water.

Fuel tank has some holes in it, biggest one about the size of a quarter. So I bought a replacement from a buddy, still have the original, may fix and save or sell. Working on painting the fuel tank and then will install.

Made supplemental drivers seat covers out of a gama goat seat back, and some couch foam and scrap canvas I had laying around.

Repaired and am still in process of repairing the wiring harness and reinstalling it. Almost done installing the front wiring harness.

Going to DMV today to get the license plate. Hoping to have wiring harness finished, and fuel tank installed soon, so I can drive it this weekend, or the beginning of next week.

Once the wiring harness is finished being installed I will be finishing fixing the front bumper, and installing it. Finishing the seats, and then a final coat of paint. Then the work on the hardtop will begin.
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Wade Stout
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Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We got the wiring harness installed and most everything hooked up. Was able to drive the jeep around yesterday for Easter taking most of the family for rides in it.
The more she runs the better she runs. Still needs some tweaking and adjusting, but overall she is doing pretty good so far.
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Wade Stout
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Willys M38 1951
MC21002
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RICKG
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Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2018 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well Done!
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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