M38 Manifold Questions - maybe treading old ground

[RonD2]

I appreciate your patience with a rookie jeep owner and far less than average auto mechanic. Over in my project thread page I asked these questions that I can't seem to form a path ahead about, even reading the TM and forum discussions. I must be missing something (huge) me thinks. I'd appreciate your guidance and advice and/or pointers to the technical reference(s) or conventional wisdom so I can learn and not have to ask so many questions in the future:

I read in the forums about the two “special washers” on the manifold, (cone on one side, flat on the other) used where the intake and exhaust flanges mate to the block. I also read that Willys changed to a regular flat washer at some point. Would it be ok for a mechanically sound M38 to use two heavy flat washers in place of these two special cone washers?

I also read about brass lock nuts and that some folks use regular all steel top lock nuts on all 7 manifold studs. Is this an acceptable way to go?

Finally, I can't find TM reference about which manifold stud holes enter the water jacket. Do all 7 studs go clear thru to the jacket?

Please straighten me out. Thanks!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[CARBERAME]

Hola

I'm not a mechnic but I had a similar experience. I found up that the coil was defective and after a while of running gets worm and suddenly the car stos and won't start again until gets coil. I don't want to confuse, but this is what happens to me. Good luck. Carlos

[OKCM38CDN]

As for your questions, it all depends on if you are going to have the jeep judged... and what level of judging you want... If it is just a proper period daily driver that one is easy to answer...

The flat washers are fine for a motor pool class and daily driver...

I went with the brass nuts (You can get them from most of the vendors now), this was to make it easier to get the manifold off later should I need to. The brass will not rust to the studs and hopefully not break a stud off...

I am sorry I cannot say which studs go into the water jacket as it has been many years since I worked on this problem....

Hope this helps...
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Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK

[wesk]

If the stud hole is blind, it does not enter the water jacket. If the stud hole is open at the inner end , it enters the water jacket.

Use brass. Steel nuts cause too much grief down the road. Engineers can be a real PITA but sometimes they get it right.

The cone washers are self centering and I prefer to use them. Cast manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. I prefer to stay stock and avoid adding any risk to the their tendency to crack.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[RonD2]

Thanks Wes and Hal!

Roger that, will use brass lock nuts and cone washers if I can find two. Where can two of the cone washers be bought? If I can't locate them fairly quick I 'll use the thick flats that came off it.

The stud hole to water jacket question is because my far left stud near the #1 piston seems to be blind (and 1/4 inch or so short. I'm wondering if somebody broke a stud off and left it in there. It had a bolt in it when I found it. Want to go back to stock studs.

Update: I found a thread on the G503 saying all 7 go through clean to the water jacket. I'll take a closer look into my #1 hole and work a thread chaser --- maybe it's just some crud plugging the hole (I did get water out of it when I broke the bolt loose).
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[RonD2]

A neighbor with a borescope confirmed for me today with a quick look that the #1 hole goes thru to the water jacket and that I don't have a stud broken off in there. What a relief that was, and what piece of gear that scope is <with a camera too>!

However, when I ran the thread chaser in after he went home, it's bottoming out short of the jacket, which makes me think that while the hole goes thru to the jacket the threads don't? Does anybody know for sure? The #7 hole (far right, at the rear of the engine) is threaded all the way thru to the jacket --- I chased those threads ok.

I ask because I ordered and got a "Stud Set" for the M-38 consisting of 5 short and 2 long studs. I have to measure them compared to the TM. If the 2 long studs go on the ends, then I have a problem in the #1 hole because the stud won't thread in all the way.

Could/should I run a tap instead of a thread chaser?

I'm going to ask my neighbor to take another peek for me after I pull the last 3 studs. I'll ask for photos this time (and post them on my project page if any body is interested) for each of the 7 holes, and at least how they are in my block.
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari