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Hawkshadow
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Joined: Oct 10, 2012
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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 Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 2:44 pm Post subject: Light switch test confirm. |
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I didn't have luck in locating a specific test procedure but figured that there should be continuity between pin F and M or F and H while in Service Drive? Failing a continuity test between those points would indicate that a late model 3 lever switch needs replacement, correct?
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Jordan
M38 CDN
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4x4M38
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Hawkshadow
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Brian! I missed the download section. Instead of 14 lamps, I would think that an Ohm meter between the points would be sufficient?
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Jordan
M38 CDN
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4x4M38
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Hawkshadow
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Joined: Oct 10, 2012
Posts: 310
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:41 am Post subject: |
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Referencing the photos and label charts posted on here, when Service Drive is selected there should be continuity between F and J, A, M, and H. I worked the switch to try and work off any internal corrosion and could only get continuity with J and occasionally A. From this, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
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Jordan
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4x4M38
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4x4M38
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wesk
Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16250
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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There were actually two early Bendix switches that are rebuildable and are shown parts wise in the ORD 9. The first one which was a two plug and the second which was a one plug with only the boss remaining for the rear harness plug. All the new switches after those two were throw away switches. Even today's push button switch is a throw away.
Both of the Bendix switches are rebuildable in the photo above. Even today they are still my preferred switch. Better quality, some repair parts availability and excellent technical data to repair them.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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Jeff_Lee
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Joined: Jan 27, 2014
Posts: 151
Location: West Palm Beach FL area
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 10:40 am Post subject: |
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The M38 Colored wiring diagram is great - a really nice reference.
I am, however having trouble reading the specific printing for the pin outs of the light switch - especially the M and N positions.
Is "N" 23 BO Stop Position, or is that an "M"??
I think "M" is shown for 16 Headlight Dimmer Sw.
Can someone in the know please clarify.
Thanks,
Jeff
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1951 M38 restoration project - Flightline Jeep MC 23923 DoD 6-51
1954 M-100 Trailer USMC Dunbar Kapple s/n M-750759 DoD 1-54
1947 Willys CJ2A - Harvest Green
1954 Ford F-100 Parts chaser - blueprinted Y-Block
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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M (16)= dimmer
N (23)= BO Stop
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Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD |
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Jeff_Lee
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Joined: Jan 27, 2014
Posts: 151
Location: West Palm Beach FL area
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| Posted: Sun Aug 30, 2015 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Bret.
I just reviewed your photo diary of your M38 build - it is a master class! I am impressed by the parts you fabbed, and what you did to restore your master light switch is amazing.
After opening mine up I found rust and dust and broken plastic. Not pretty:
My approach is to try to find a functioning used or NOS light switch, as I don't think I could pull off what you have done! I am running 12v, so I will use a headlight relay (behind the panel out of sight, as you did) to keep the amperage low through the switch.
Thanks and regards,
Jeff
PS: How did the Kiwi White Leather shoe polish hold up on the lettering on the light switch?
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1951 M38 restoration project - Flightline Jeep MC 23923 DoD 6-51
1954 M-100 Trailer USMC Dunbar Kapple s/n M-750759 DoD 1-54
1947 Willys CJ2A - Harvest Green
1954 Ford F-100 Parts chaser - blueprinted Y-Block
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4x4M38
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Hawkshadow
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Joined: Oct 10, 2012
Posts: 310
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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To bring it back for a minute for future record:
Evidently my switch wasn't functioning correctly. I ordered a new one from a supplier, tested it for the same continuity points and all worked with no problem. I am now having other light issues, but those will be sorted in another thread.
With regards to the old switch, I may try a couple of other suggested restoration methods at a later date.
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Jordan
M38 CDN
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4x4M38
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4x4M38
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