Hawkshadow's '52 M38CDN

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:43 am

Wes,
I think this is a great idea.

Any chance the rivet counters would look hard for that stuff if tucked under the tool box, fuel tank and top of floor under same?

I know they'd see it on the floorboards and the bottom of the tub, but if one could stick it in those places the sun doesn't shine but rust grows...

Brian

Post by **wesk** » Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:49 am

If you are restoring factory class you need to go to the MVPA web site and pose your question to their judging staff. Otherwise motor pool class or driver shouldn't make any difference.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:46 am

Sometimes a little creativity is required during these projects... Like when you removed the exhaust system in one piece after the engine and then re-installed the engine first.

Onto mounting the radiator and hoses. As opposed to the 2 piece lower assembly listed from some jeep suppliers I highly suggest Napa #7728. a perfect fit, just trim to length. I also went with the flexible hose FF197 for the upper as opposed to a piece of straight hose.

Here she is basking in the fall sunshine patiently waiting for the body.

Skipping over the dozen or so times that the body went on and off as we marked and drilled mounting holes... here she is! The new body lined up and mounted quite well, lining up better than some of the originals I've seen. The underside of the tub and typical problem spots such as in the taillight housings, toolbox, battery box, and under the gas tank have all been protected with colour-matched linex as well.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:23 pm

Frigid weather certainly slows down the progress on this type of project, but it's important to keep busy. So, I spent a couple of hours with calipers and an exacto knife making up some gaskets for the gas tank.

I spent a while making out measurements and did a trial run with cardboard before moving on to gasket material.

2 practice units complete. It was quite a pleasant surprise to find that you can make the sending unit gasket from the extra inside of the pickup gasket!

A little while later, patience pays off and there is 2 perfectly matched gaskets.

End Measurements:
Pickup
Diameter: 4.5"
Gasket Width: .9"
Inner opening Diameter: 3.6"

Sending Unit
Diameter: 2.5"
Gasket Width: .9"
Inner Opening Diameter: 1.6"

Next I moved on to converting the Packard connector on the sending unit to a Douglas connector. Not sure if this is the best method, all input is welcome!

Prepare parts

Remove Packard setup

This is where I am unsure if this was the best method and am wondering if anyone else has any other input. I attempted to place the Douglas connector straight onto the unit but there was a lot of play and the pin on the unit was unsecure. I replaced the washer and nut that came on the unit.

With the nut and washer on the pin the rubber piece was a little too long.

Rubber trimmed to size

Assembled unit with Douglas connector installed.

Thoughts on this setup? I have never attempted to convert Packard to Douglas before, and am thinking that I may be doing so again especially if I pick up some of those new Klixon circuit breakers.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Jan 12, 2015 11:43 pm

If the housing of the sender is metal then you seem to be missing something to insulate the + 24V pin from the sender case. Even if there is a grommet filling the hole in the case where the pin passes thru you still have the washer touching the case.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:12 pm

Great point Wes! Thanks! I'm thinking I'll put a rubber washer as the first thing out from the body which is made of stainless steel. I'm also thinking about moving the nut to the inside of the connector to make it a little more secure. Would that affect the connection in any foreseeable way?

RICKG · Post by **RICKG** » Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:47 pm

Hawkshadow wrote: So, I spent a couple of hours with calipers and an exacto knife making up some gaskets for the gas tank.

Not to "Butt-inski" here but a single hole paper punch tool is the ticket for the gasket screw holes. Quick and clean.. works for me.

BTW the progress you're making is remarkable

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:48 pm

Thanks Rick. This has certainly been an exciting and informative labour of love over the past few years. I know the big days of being able to start and drive are coming soon and the excitement is growing! I greatly appreciate all of the advice that I've received along the way.

I need to get a hole punch for future gaskets. I carefully used a drill bit for this one and having a hole punch would've made it much easier.

Xamon · Post by **Xamon** » Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:04 am

I would think a leather punch, with it's different sizes would be of more utility.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:00 pm

Xamon, thanks for the great idea! I picked one up from Tandy Leather for around $20 that I'm sure will come in handy.

For the level sending unit, I'm at a bit of an impasse.

I tried a setup like this, only to find:
A) that the pin isn't secured to the housing and will push into the housing when you try to put on the rubber piece and
B) even when this setup is installed, it doesn't leave enough of the pin exposed to connect the connector.

I tried a smaller O-ring only to arrive at the same conclusion - can't get it seated well, and even if it were fully seated, not enough of the pin is exposed.

Which lead me back to...

The original setup. I am now wondering about making this one connection into a Packard style.

Thoughts? Has anyone come across this before?

I'll also post the topic in the technical section to see if others have had the same experience or have any additional thoughts.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:47 am

That exhaust pipe problem reminds me of the time I installed headers on a 1978 Firebird.................................

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:24 pm

I've made the screw/bolt holes in the templates as well as
reasonably thin gasket material by laying the material over
the flange and tapping around the hole ring with the round end
of a ball pein hammer. Once you find a hole concentrate there.
Tap lightly. If done right and depending on the squareness of the holes they will come out as good as punched holes.

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Sun Apr 05, 2015 9:55 pm

Many small tasks keep the project moving!

Cleaned out the holes with a tap

All mounted in

To solve the Douglas / Packard issue, I purchased a jumper from Brian Asbury to do the trick.

Time to freshen up the gauge cluster

I found blue magic metal polish to work quite well. Used in the similar method as boot polish - a little polish, a little water, little circles.

Much clearer glass.

A bit of paint and it's looking good!

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Mon Apr 06, 2015 6:55 am

Te me how you reattached the Packard connector to your sender
pin. Mine is gone and the pin just wiggles around.

Also, you might check placement of your gauges. Nice job
on the cluster!

Hawkshadow · Post by **Hawkshadow** » Sun May 10, 2015 8:25 am

Hey Brian,

The parts come off in sequence and re-attached with no problem. The threaded pin holds it all together with a nut and washer. The post from 5 Jan and the 5th picture down is a good illustration.