Hodakaguy M38 Misc Thread

[HodakaguyTom]

Vapor Lock....let's address that.

When the M38 left the factory the fuel line was routed very close to the exhaust manifold. This allowed the fuel tubing to get hot enough to boil the fuel and cause vapor locking issues. We had vapor lock a couple times last summer. I had temporarily fixed this issue by sliding a fire sleeve over the fuel line to insulate the line from the exhaust manifold, but didn't like the looks of it installed as it took away from the stock look.

In 1953 the US Army released a technical bulletin to address the vapor lock issue, this Bulletin called for re-routing the fuel line away from the exhaust manifold. Here's a copy of the bulletin.






And here's a pic of the fuel line on our Jeep, routed as it would have been when it originally left the factory.




Fresh stick of 5/16" tubing




Marking the bend location on the tubing








Making the bend. I love roller benders, they leave smooth bends without any kinks or smashed tubing.








Back in the Jeep to mark the cut length on the tubing.




Initial cut.




Adding the width of the mandrel to the cut line. When the double flare is made this will bring the overall length back to the original mark.






Setting the height of the tubing in the tool. The tubing height should be even with the raised edge on the mandrel.




Inside of the tubing has been reemed to take off any raised edges.




Using a file to ensure the top of the tubing is completly flat. Taking time to prep properly here makes a huge difference in the quality of the final flare.




Adding a bit of oil to the tubing and mandrel.






The proper sized mandrel is placed into the tubing, then the mandrel is pressed down against the clamp. This forms the first flare.








The mandrel is removed then the clamp is utilized again with some light oil to form the double flare. DONT forget to install the fitting on the tubing before you make the flare...or you'll be doing it over again








With the fuel line fabricated I decided to fabricate a new vent line as well. The previous owner had bent the line incorrectly then hand tweaked it to fit...resulting in several kinks in the tubing.






Marking and bending the new vent line.








New vent line installed in the Jeep. A lot cleaner.






And the new fuel line installed as well.












One more small project out of the way.

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

The transmission & transfer case are friends again.

With the transmission set on the bench it's time to get to work.




I cut the heads off a couple bolts and installed them in the transmission for alignment pins. This will help guide the two units together smoothly.






Marking where the gasket sits so I can apply Aviation Permatex. Permatex was applied to both sides of the gasket and both mating surfaces. Allow the Permatex to air dry for a bit before joining the parts. I've used Aviation Permatex for years....great stuff!












Joining the two together.






Removing the guide pins and installing the bolts.




Torquing the bolts




Joined together.




Next up is to install the gear on the transmission output shaft.




Gear slid onto the shaft.




Washer installed.






Applying Orange Thread Sealer




Lock nut for the Output Shaft.




Torquing the output shaft nut to 105 ft/lbs






Installing the cover with more Aviation Permatex. Permatex applied to the bolt threads as well to seal the through holes.














With the two units mated up I cleaned off the excess Permatex and primed/painted the exposed edges.






Next I removed the emergency brake drum again and swapped out the companion flange bolts. The new set I installed last post was to short and didn't have enough bolt length to attach the drive line. This swap only took a few minutes.








With that out of the way I set to cleaning up and painting some of the small bits. Here I'm removing the clutch cable from the bell housing.








Parts cleaned up and ready for paint.






In primer




Time to clean up the clutch control tube




End seals have seen better days.




Unit was missing the two metal disks.




More primer and paint








Getting closer!








More to come....

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

A tiny bit of progress today.

Freshly painted clutch control tube displayed with the new rebuild kit. I ended up painting and re-using the original ball studs as they were in great cond still. When I removed this assembly from the jeep both metal disc's were missing.




Assembly order of the clutch control tube. Note new cotter pins have already been installed in the tube.




Starting to pack the tube with grease.






Starting on the short side first. The metal disc is installed up against the cotter pin.






More grease added then the felt is installed up against the disc.






Next up is the long end. On this end the spring is installed first and goes up against the cotter pin. Again the tube is packed with grease.










Disc is installed on top of spring.






More grease then the felt is installed up against the disc.






With the control tube assembled and placed in a zip lock bag for future use I turned my attention to the bell housing.




A light coat of grease on the mating surface of the bell housing.






Bolted up.






Installing the clutch release fork.




A bot of grease on the ears and where the ball stud rides.














Installing the vent fitting on top of the transfer case. I used Aviation Permatex to seal the threads.


















Installing the clutch control shaft ball stud onto the transfer case.












More to come.....

Hodakaguy

[RonD2]

Hey Tom,
More great photo details!

Have to ask: considering this recent announcement http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... 0668#80668 how did you manage to upload all those photos?

I can't even look at my album.

[HodakaguyTom]

Hey Tom,
More great photo details!

Have to ask: considering this recent announcement http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... 0668#80668 how did you manage to upload all those photos?

I can't even look at my album.

I host my photos on a remote site (Smugmug) then link the photos to my post. That way the photos don't take up any space from the host site. I also retain full control of my photos.

I'd be happy to make up a video showing the process if that's something you would like to try.

Hodakaguy

[RonD2]

Thanks anyway Tom, but not necessary.
Can't afford $25 a month for a place to park photos.

[RonD2]

Hi Tom,
I’m guessing you decided to pack your tube full of grease to keep crud out?

I always found it strange that the Army and Willys seem to pretty much ignore the clutch control lever (tube) in the service manuals and lubrication order --- a moving part that gets a lot of use and is positioned to easily collect crud and water from the road.
Especially since there’s no way to clean and lubricate it without taking it apart.

I thought I’d share that I modified my tube by inserting a piece of Delrin (5/8-inch round stock 4-inches long) inside the tube to take up space instead of packing it with grease.
The 5/8ths round stock is a medium interference fit --- tight enough not to move but not so tight it can’t be easily removed if need be.
Delrin is impervious to grease, durable enough to last forever, and temperature stable so it doesn’t shrink, expand, or rot.

Then I took it a step further and drilled and tapped the tube for 2 grease zerk fittings (carefully placed to be accessible).
I'm considering finishing this unauthorized mod by replacing the cotter pins with roll pins to totally enclose the space (except for the ends of course).
Still easy enough to punch them out for maintenance.

With the other zerks under the jeep in that area they look right at home.
Maybe overkill ---> a solution in search of a problem?

[RonD2]

Can't take credit for the basic idea, got it here: http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... be&start=0

Yet another nugget buried in this great forum.

[HodakaguyTom]

[quote="RonD2"
Hi Tom,
I’m guessing you decided to pack your tube full of grease to keep crud out?

I always found it strange that the Army and Willys seem to pretty much ignore the clutch control lever (tube) in the service manuals and lubrication order --- a moving part that gets a lot of use and is positioned to easily collect crud and water from the road.
Especially since there’s no way to clean and lubricate it without taking it apart.

I thought I’d share that I modified my tube by inserting a piece of Delrin (5/8-inch round stock 4-inches long) inside the tube to take up space instead of packing it with grease.
The 5/8ths round stock is a medium interference fit --- tight enough not to move but not so tight it can’t be easily removed if need be.
Delrin is impervious to grease, durable enough to last forever, and temperature stable so it doesn’t shrink, expand, or rot.

Then I took it a step further and drilled and tapped the tube for 2 grease zerk fittings (carefully placed to be accessible).
I'm considering finishing this unauthorized mod by replacing the cotter pins with roll pins to totally enclose the space (except for the ends of course).
Still easy enough to punch them out for maintenance.

With the other zerks under the jeep in that area they look right at home.
Maybe overkill ---> a solution in search of a problem?

[/quote]


Hi Ron. Yeah I filled the tube just to keep any rust ect from forming inside the tube. Nice job on the Zerks. I did think of adding that mod as well but was wondering how effective they would be since they are on the inside of the disk/felt, I'm sure the pressure will push grease past them just fine. I figured It's pretty easy to drop the tube every few years and clean/repack with grease. Like you said It's weird they didn't set this part up for easier maint.

Thanks for the tip

Hodakaguy

[RonD2]

....wondering how effective they would be since they are on the inside of the disk/felt, I'm sure the pressure will push grease past them just fine.

Yes it does.
A little grease also gets out the cotter pin holes --- hence swapping them out for roll pins.

[HodakaguyTom]

....wondering how effective they would be since they are on the inside of the disk/felt, I'm sure the pressure will push grease past them just fine.

Yes it does.
A little grease also gets out the cotter pin holes --- hence swapping them out for roll pins.

Nice! Great mod! Thanks again for sharing.

Hodakaguy

[HodakaguyTom]

More Progress.....Back in the Jeep!

Here the cross member and numerous small bits have received a fresh coat of primer & paint.










Original rubber isolator compared to the new one.






Yep...A new one will be good




Isolator in the cross member














Installing the new rubber boot on the clutch cable. A bit of Sil-Glide made installation easy.










New dowel bolts installed in the bell housing. These are your alignment bolts.




A thin coat of Moly Paste on the clutch splines






Assembly on the transmission jack and ready to go back into the Jeep. I padded the jack with moving blankets and used a ratchet strap to hold the assembly onto the jack. The transmission jack (This on is a Harbor Freight unit) makes this job soooo easy. All 4 wheels are full caster allowing freedom of movement, the jack handle pivots 360 deg allowing easy adjustment of height and the head is adjustable for angle on both front to back and side to side directions.






With my wife pushing forward on the jack from underneath I wiggled the transmission back and forth and it slid right into place. I popped a hole in the tape on top of the transmission so I could rotate the input shaft and make sure it was engaged in the clutch splines to get the assembly sliding forward.






And its in.








It looks like the vent line is suppose to tie into the bell housing where the plug is installed just forward of the clutch boot. I'll have to modify this.




Installing the shift levers on the transfer case. Lubricating the pivot points and pin before assembly.




Anti rattle spring installed.






And hitting the zerk with some grease






I'm using Aviation Permatex on the shift tower gasket instead of grease. This will fill the little imperfections in the mating surface and hopefully prevent leaks.








Some fresh GL4 to coat everything with oil. I'll finish topping it off through the fill plug.






Aviation Permatex on the threads to seal the through holes.




I used some high moly grease to lubricate the ball on the T90 shifter upon assembly.




Installing the gasket on the shift tower. A bit of grease on the gasket prior to assembly. Tip: The Cuno oil filter gaskets are also the perfect size to fit the shift tower on the M38.













I didn't stop to snap pics during the process but when installing the shift tower onto the transmission place the shifter in 3rd gear and with the bolts installed and still a bit loose pull the tower rearward as far as it will go then tighten down the bolts.




Clutch control tube back in place.




More to come....

Hodakaguy

[RonD2]

Hey Tom,
Think you still might have a duplicate sequence of your last photo post?

The little "x" button next to the quote and edit (post) buttons at the far right is the "delete this post" button to do it yourself.

Maybe I missed it ----- engine stay cable?

Nice work!

[HodakaguyTom]

Hey Tom,
Think you still might have a duplicate sequence of your last photo post?

The little "x" button next to the quote and edit (post) buttons at the far right is the "delete this post" button to do it yourself.

Maybe I missed it ----- engine stay cable?

Nice work!

I was looking for that option to delete but it's not there, I think it's only available for a limited period of time. The site was having issues this morning and it looks like it uploaded numerous copies when it finally went through.

The engine stay is on there, I did not get a good picture of it though. I still need to modify the vent line coming off of the transmission so that it tees into the bell housing, I am waiting on getting the fitting before I can do that work. Getting closer!

Thanks.

Tom.

[RonD2]

I think it's only available for a limited period of time.

I just looked at several of my posts from weeks ago and it's there.
A little "x" in a box at the far right hand side of the screen.
If you hover on it it says "delete this post".
You have to be logged in to see it.