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On my A1 the flange for the muffler connection is past the cross member. It looks like yours is just under and fitting too close. I'm not sure how the m38 is supposed to fit.

I have absolutly no idea how it's suppose to fit

It's not really in there very good. The whole system is under alot of tension. Loosen one bolt and it'll pop out. I am going to step back and slow down. I need to touch up the paint in several areas where the primer is showing through. It's funny that I don't see the primer until I take a picture.

I had that same observation. After I posted pics I noticed primer on the springs of mine.

Good luck with the exhaust. Shouldn't be a big deal to fix and inexpensive. I'm still thinking you may have to modify just the muffler.

Thanks Dave. How's your Jeep coming. Do you have any new pictures to post on your restoration thread?

Hi Dave.

I've been working on the tub. It's been slow going grinding & welding. I'll get a picture up soon.

Putting my generator in. Is the hole in the block right in front of the starter suppose to have a drain cock or a plug?

Cock, Drain, T handle, Brass, 1/4" male pipe end (type C), ORD# 103647

I think dave is talking about the starter support hole in the block?

I think since he already has that hole properly bolted to the starter support bracket and that hole is not forward of the starter and he implies he already knows the only two choices are a pipe plug or drain cock that he is in all likelyhood referring to the hole forward of the starter which enters the water jacket and must have one or the other installed.

Thanks guys. Wes is correct. The starter is bolted in place to the support bracket. I couldn't remember if that drain cock in the picture came from that location or if it was something I had pulled from another Willys motor. I stuck it in there to plug the hole for painting. Now I just need to place a bet on if that old drain cock would leak. I'll probably just go down to NAPA and buy a new one. I just ordered some small parts from Ron Fitzpatrick, I should have ordered one of those while I was at it.

Been struggling with my fuel pump installation. Last night I busted off one of the bolts in my block

I got it mostly drilled out but now I gotta sit there and pick all the little bits of left over bolt fragments out. It's going slow. I am trying to take my time and be patient.

That #@$%@ fuel pump does not even seam like it fits. The top bowl hits the front enging plate. I don't get it. What's the trick?

1-Are you using a stock pump?

2-Do you have the correct spacer installed?

3-Are you using 1/4" drive ratchet?

wesk wrote:1-Are you using a stock pump?

2-Do you have the correct spacer installed?

3-Are you using 1/4" drive ratchet?

1- The fuel pump that I am using is a rebuild from MWM. I'll check the numbers on the flange and post a picture of it.

2- The spacer is an NOS spacer that I purchased from MWM.

3- I am using a 1/4" drive socket wrench for the installation.

I bolted the fuel pump in after some wrangling to get it into place. Upon inspection of my installation, I noticed that the spacer was not flush to the block and the top bowl was hitting the front engine plate. The rear part of the FP spacer was all the way to the block but the front part was not flush. So, the spacer was not parallel to the block. The front bolt broke off while removing it. I'll bet I cross threaded it.

They can be tough with the preload on the pump arm fighting you. Patience is the key and I always try to make at least 4 full threads by hand before wrenching on any bolt.

Thanks Wes. That's good info.