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Trying to remember my geometry but if your rod is one inch too long that will make you at least 1" too much free play on the clutch side.

'Course if the offsets of your arms on your old cross tube are 1" off center that might explain the 1" longer rod, and we are back to square one.

So, if you use your old z tube with the off angle arms, 11-1/2" rod might be correct.

With the new, proper Z tube with 180 degree arms, using the 10-1/2" rod should pull your release cable 1" to the rear. Then you can unthread the clevis on the cable to adjust your freeplay.

It sounds like you have two sets of parts, that when paired properly probably would work. But you've used your old rod with the new Z bar, throwing the geometry off.

As Wes says, ideally take a look at a running M38 or A1, but I'm betting you shorten the rod to 10-1/2" center and you'll be good.

Of course your mileage may vary......

I will update this thread when I have a 10.5" rod (made, borrowed or purchased) with status on if it resolved the issue (at this point I suspect it will)

Grab a couple of clevis ends and some all thread for a tryout.
Any hardware store like Ace or Lowe’s should have what you need.

I happen to have some 1/4 rod, so I first made a rod that was ~10.5" long with bent ends, and when I wasn't happy with that I made another that was ~9.5" long. With no cotter pin hole, I can't really put significant force on the clutch pedal to make sure it bottoms out before the pedal hits the floorboard, but at least I can confirm that 'first contact with throwout bearing' is at a point where the pedal is significantly above the floor and the clutch cable clevis is at about 'half way' of the adjustment range, so this is quick confirmation that the adjustable rod with two clevis ends will get the adjustment in range.

Three rod lengths compared.


With the shortest rod installed and throwout bearing just making contact with pressure plate fingers