New Restoration getting started - M38a1 and M416a1

Start your project thread here for advice and for others to follow along with your project. This is a long term thread.

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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Labor Day was a good day. Found some time to run the M38a1. I was able to drive it around the neighborhood. Checked the compression:
90
90
120
90.

Not great. I suppose it could be valves. It seemed to run and idle pretty well. I suppose I'll tear the engine down at some point. I'm hoping a full rebuild won't be in the cards.
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

I finally got around to taking the paint of my wheel well data plate. It says 660xx. Dashplate is 93xxx. Crap. I guess I'm going to have to figure out what the serial on the engine is tomorrow.
Last edited by Balvar24 on Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Engine serial looks like 77877. What do you think I have?
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Balvar24
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UPDATE

Post by Balvar24 »

I'm down to the drive train. Wes, you should have my more or less complete survey. I'm beginning to think I have a 53-ish instead of 63 jeep. The dashplate doesn't seem to match anything else. Oh well. The frame is solid. I've got to straighten the ends of the rear crossmembers and it'll be set. The body has some rot on the passenger side, but not as much as I thought. I was concerned about all the bondo smeared on it. Turns out, I'm going to get to learn how to swing a body hammer. Most of the bondo was covering dents and not rust (blessing in disguise?). I'll try and get some pics up later tonight. I guess my next step is going to be pulling the powerplant and determining how extensive my engine rebuild is going to be. My compression numbers are posted above. I'm wondering if I have a head gasket or some valve issues? On the transmisision, I've rebuilt a somewhat similar T-150 before. I'm sure I'll need new bearings and brass. As for the Transfer, I'm still debating what to do. Suggestions?
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

It's best to perform a leak down check on each cylinder to ascertain what the issue is. Saves a lot of speculation and hit and miss troubleshooting.

If you have ever removed and installed a transfer case on your back under the jeep you'll know that there is no better time to "Git er done" than right now while it's out.

The date on that tranny top will add to your date of delivery clues as will the type of front frame boxing.

Image
Early frame

Image
Late frame
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Yeah, email sent. Early style frame. I think I included the Tranny date in my survey email to you as well. I think it went along with a more 53-ish date. I'll probably do a full inpection ot the Tcase when it's off the frame. Is there much other than bearing and spacers to replace in the transfer?
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

The best two guides on the web are:

http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90Rebuild ... ebuild.htm

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCa ... rCase.html

Use Novak and Advanced Adapters for your parts needs. All top shelf. Also a nice kit for upgrading the transfer is there as well.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Thanks. Oh, and I 2nd on Novak. They've been a great resource in the past.
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Went to ye olde Harbor Freight yesterday. Bought China's finest 750lb. engine stand for $35. I'm probably going to start pulling the engine tonight (draining oil, etc.) What size (length) bolts am I going to need. I know the tech manual has the size. I'm uncertain about length.

Also, has anyone ever stored their body by standing it on its side? I'm running out of warm space to work.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

I store them on a small wooden frame with casters sitting on their rear panel. They are easy to move around now and then. Of course I have a 10 foot ceiling in my garage.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Yeah, I wanted to go that route. But, I've got like 7'3 clear and the tub is right at 7'0" long. I was thiking of strapping it to a couple of furniture dollies or even framing up some 2x4's. I'll probably do the later this weekend and then pull the engine. I need to post some pictures. If you look at my gallery, I'm using the space pictured. What you can't see is my CJ7 parked to the left of where I was standing to take the picture. Painting is going to be a blast. I'll probably do it on a day while the wife is not at home in order to maintain domestic tranquillity and overall marital stability.
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Was anyone else's front bumper spot welded to the frame? The inside top of my bumper was tacked to the frame horns.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

That's a Bubba thing. They were bolted only at Willys.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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Balvar24
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Post by Balvar24 »

Interesting. Mine had all the bolts as well as the two welds. Wonder if someone was afraid it would fall off?
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RICKG
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Post by RICKG »

UH--DID IT HAVE A BUMPER STICKER ON THE REAR
READING "HONK IF SOMETHING FALLS OFF?? :lol:
keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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