Finally started working on my M38

Start your project thread here for advice and for others to follow along with your project. This is a long term thread.
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ocwd
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Engine Stay Cable

Post by ocwd »

Here is a picture of my engine stay cable. I am assuming that the bracket attached to the cable is for the parking brake cable. Is that bracket correct for the M38? Is it for the M38? Anyone have pictures of the correct orientation of this bracket?

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Ryan_Miller
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Post by Ryan_Miller »

That looks like the bracket for the parking brake. It should be covered in rubber on the bottom. Just check out McMaster Carr for the rubber coating you can dip the bracket into.
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

The clamp for locking the brake cable in position on the crossmember is illustrated below. The correct clamp was a bit heavier then the one shown and I believe it had a small tab that positioned the clamp correctly and the tab layed in a smaller hole in the upper plate of the tranny mount isolator above the crossmember next to the clamp bolt hole.

Image

The clamp in your photo I believe goes up on the left fender in hole #14 illustrated below.

Image
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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ocwd
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Bracket

Post by ocwd »

The bracket/clamp in your picture looks very common. I am sure that I have one or two laying around.
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maeserik
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Post by maeserik »

always nice to see a picture of my jeep as an example to show everything has to be fixed....

No problems Wes, i had different clamps to fix the parkingbrake cable, now i know i did not use the right one after 5 years......


greetings, Erik
1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgal ... p?cat=1865

and this webside
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alpino
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Post by alpino »

NICE M38! I am learning more regarding my M38 from your adventures! I will say... regarding the muffler and pipes... when you start running down the road it will smell like your ride is on fire but it's the paint burnin' off.
<div><font size="1">M38 1951
</font></div><div><font size="1"><span class="postbody">M100 trailer 1951</span></font></div><div><font size="1"><span class="postbody">GPW 1945</span></font></div><div><font size="1">LPCs 1980 to 2007
</font></div>
ocwd
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Muffler Paint

Post by ocwd »

I figured that the paint would burn off. I am temted to strip the paint and shoot it with a high temp metal color paint. It's a cheap muffler, probably made in China. I guess it's the only one on the market. I painted my exhaust manifold too. I expect that will smell like $&% also.
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53a1
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Post by 53a1 »

I used the 2000 deg primer & paint from Autozone on my muffler and exhaust manifold and both are holding up perfect after a few 1/2 hour drives in 100+ weather.

I did sand blast them before prime and paint.

I also did a weld test on the same paint and it only came up near the weld. Pretty amazing stuff.
'53 M38A1 X2
ocwd
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Paint

Post by ocwd »

I'll probably do what you did Dave. What is the color that you used on your muffler?
ocwd
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Voltage Regulator

Post by ocwd »

I painted my voltage regulator top a few months ago but I forgot what color the raised letters were. I think they were red but I am really not sure. Also, I painted the brackets OD. Is it necessary to have metal to metal where the insulators mount to the bracket? Meaning, should I strip the paint at that section of the brackets? I still need to paint the base.
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53a1
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Post by 53a1 »

Hey Dave.

I wire wheeled the bottom feet on the regulator to contact the braided line and masked the surface your talking about before painting. Before assembling I cleaned the bare surfaces with contact cleaner on a rag and applied a dielectric spray.

You probably don't have to do all this because the bolt will complete the circuit but I figure it can't hurt. I didn't paint the letters and don't plan on doing so.

Have you verified your regulator is working?

Like always, consult the experts (not me) first if you want 100% originality.
'53 M38A1 X2
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evanso1975
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Post by evanso1975 »

There was an NOS regulator on Ebay a few weeks ago (I think the guy was advertising it as M37 Dodge). That had the raised letters painted red.

Of course, I didn't keep a picture of it. :roll:

Wbr,
Owen.
Owen

1951 US Air Force M38
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ocwd
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Voltage Regulator

Post by ocwd »

Dave, I bought my regulator and generator from a guy who tested them before he sold them to me. I know where he lives just in case. I also have a back-up regulator. Come to think of it, my back-up has the brackets attached. I'll remove one of the brackets and see if it is painted under the insulators.

Thanks Owen. I was pretty sure the letters are red but wanted to confirm.
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Voltage Regulator Brackets

Post by ocwd »

I checked two sets of voltage regulator brackets and both were bare metal where the insulators mount.
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Ryan_Miller
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Post by Ryan_Miller »

The photo of the e brake cable bracket above is the bracket at the bell housing. As Wes said there is also a clamp bracket at the tranny cross member, at the inner fender well on the driver side and a clamp at the under dash bracket.

A great resource for electrical, wiper, fuel , etc metal clamps for the M38 is the Australian company MV spares in their MB kit. That kit has bracket clamps that are also the same for the M38. Speedo cable, fuel line, electrical, and the fender e brake cable bracket.

Yes you want the brackets to be bare metal - originals were cadmium plated. You need a good ground.
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