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While she's apart do not overlook everything inside the bell housing. New pilot bushing included.

Wes, are you talking about the pilot bushing on the fly wheel? I have already replaced that with a new one.

Yep. Did you soak it in 30 weight oil before you installed it?

No, I put it in the freezer for a couple of hours then pressed it into place. I did not know that I needed to soak it in oil. Please explain. Dave

The bushing must be saturated with 30 weight oil to provide long temr lubrication when it's trapped in that dry lonely place! It's in the service manual.

Well, it's locked in there now. I'll try to soak it in place some how. I could probably create a bubble with plastic and duct tape and fill that with oil.

Also, per manual, have you reamed it to spec? Just checking... because many years ago I remember bench pressing a transmission and transfer case under my GPW only to find the hole in the PB was too small for the trans input shaft.

Good to see progress being made.

Tom

Just take a grease gun and fill the void behind it with grease. Then places a steel shaft that fits snugly inside the pilot bushing and try to push it into the hole when resistance is felt that means you have enough grease in the void. Now samck the steel shaft with a hammer and the hydraulic pressure will pop the bushing out for you. No harm done. Now clean the bushing with brake cleaner and throw it in a dish of 30 weight engine oil for a few a day or so and tap it back in place.

Do you have your manuals?

The flywheel is sitting on my bench and the engine is still on the engine stand as the T-90 is slowing me down. I am guessing that your method is for when the flywheel is mounted on the crank. Can I tap the bushing out with a piece of wood or brass drift?

After soaking in oil, can I put it back in the freezer for installation?

Yes and yes and yes. You can also heat the flywheel in an oven for 15 minutes or so at 400. The heat expanded flywheel and fridged bushing will slip right together. The reaming to a matched size with your tranny's input shaft is to be done after the bushing is in the flywheel.

I guess I could also heat up the flywheel on the bar-b-que but I am going to stick with putting the bushing in a bag in the freezer. Thanks guys for the comments. You may have saved me some head ache later.

The oven is the best place. I do both for a quarenteed easy insert. I use the exact same method for the ring gear. Flywheel goes in the freezer overnight and the next day the ring gear goes in the oven for 1/2 hour at 400 and voila they slip right together. You may have to bribe the wife!

I try to stay away from my wife's oven and dish washer. I have an M1 Garand and an M1 Carbine stock that i'd like to run through the dishwaher but I probably never will.

Well I finally got back to my T90. I am experiencing frustration with the synchronizer plates, clutch hub, and clutch sleeve. The clutch sleeve is extremely hard to slide in and out on the clutch hub. The synchronizer plates don't seem like they are in correctly. See attached pictures. Only one of the plates appears to be seated correctly. The other two seam to be poking out. Also, the clutch sleeve does not slide well even with the plates out. I do not recall this being an issue when I disassembled the transmission. Is there a trick for installing the synchronizer plates? The top picture below shows the one synchronizer plate that appears to be seated. The bottom picture shows the plate that is bulging out. I had everything together once and mated it with the transfer case so I could easily run through the gears. Then I separated the TC and T90. I remembered that I needed to put the top gasket on so, like a dummy, I pulled back on the shifter pulling the main shaft out of the main drive gear. I herd those little roller bearings squirt free. It's back together now but it won't cycle through the gears like it did before.

Has anyone come across what I am tlking about here? I am stuck.