willysmjeeps.com

Picked up the m100 today.rough shape, no data tag, but does have the army number and seems fairly complete. Bought a bed floor too.



This will probably be “project seabag” as we always dragging around our baggage.

Off for a few more days. Hope to get the redneck wind chime items painted grey. Depends on the wx. The wx channel says rain and snow mix possible, Drove thru Md and pA in that today- I forget I hate to drive in it till I have to drive in it.

All I did today was fart around in the garage while waiting on a foundation company and a landscape company to give a quote on the issues I am facing with the garage and walkway. My garage has a void under it- i noticed a hole between the garage floor and the footing of the garage wall. Stuck a ruler down there and it was like 9 inches deep in some places and in one point it was 16" deep. There is no cracking in the walls, or garage floor, but I do need it handled. The issue is starting from how the downspout comes down on the corner of the garage at the walkway to the house. It just drains at the footing of the garage wall. There goes $8K!!!

Anyway, measured the T90 case. I followed Metalshaper on YT and did exactly what he did. Mine is worn.







Did some painting on the small parts hanging from my redneck windchime. I covered the jeep and the trailer. we are expecting some rain and mix in the following days.

I threw some spray paint on the drag link, the steering box, pitman arm, and a few other small parts. I have enough to keep me busy this week.

Mine looked the same. The thrust washer had been spinning. It’s supposed to have a tab that keeps it from doing so, but i guess everything else got so sloppy it wallered around so much it ground off the tab, abd started spinning against the case. I’m guessing tab bits are just part of what caused all the damage.

I didn’t bother measuring. No way I was putting it back together like that. No way I could guarantee a flat surface for the washer to sit against.

Might give Midwest, AJO, Brent Mullins or QTM and see if they have one. I lucked out and found one on here. I had seventy bucks in it including shipping by the time it showed up. A couple of years ago, pre-Covid.

Already bought one from Debellas. NOS for 200... a repop case is the same price - go with original equipment for sure.

On New Years Eve, spent the day working on a few things. Washing parts, repaint the data plate panel ( it fell while wet and gunned a corner).

Messed with the drag link system and even worked on my steering box.

(I legit have ADHD- so I do tend to bounce around a lot)

The clutch and brake mech was seized... may explain why I didn’t have brakes(contributed to I’m sure)


Time to change the cleaning tank after this mess! I even used engine degreaser, a pressure washer and putty knife before all this.



Drive shafts (prop shafts) are in rough shape too. One end of the joint caps were welded across with a strap





Steering box prep. Had to use 3 sockets to bang the horn switch adapter out. Sure rusted in there. Couple good hits with my trusty vintage 16oz craftsman ball peen hammer(stollen from my mom- (story behind this one). Put the ratchet side down for more surface area.



Got the new bearing cups in, ball bearings in place. Struggled with the upper snap ring for an embarrassing too long time before I realized I was missing the second small ring that holds the cup where the snap ring rests against that and the groove.

Now I’m trying to get a good preload. I may take it apart again if I can’t get it. Feels a little chunky so it may have a rough ended on my spline.



The rivet tool came in the mail yesterday too! They included a advert key chain. I can’t remember the last time I got something like that from a small company. You can get a lemon head/jolly rancher each package and can get calendars and T-shirt’s from kW, but other companies I’ve dealt with I haven’t seen that in like 10 years.

Messed around with the steering.
2.5 turns from hard stop is center.



Yes I know it’s upside down- I didn’t want to get it stuck while I found center for pitman arm. I do t have the right puller! I spent like an hour with a thread file cause of that over. Year ago, I should probably buy one...





Decided to put my windshield cowl gasket on. I need to adjust the windshield after all of that. It rests on top of mycowl battery box.



Had two screws get they the rubber. Putting a tiny washer in there helped!


Since my data plate rivet tool got here, I tried it out.





My attempt isn’t the greatest.


My harbor freight stamp set is a bit big for this font.
And I don’t have the ordinance stamp. I wonder if I can clean up my original..







Maybe...

Hi Coastie,
Maybe it's just me, but do I see G758 M38A1 data plates?

I also have 5 turns of the steering wheel stop-to-stop (2.5 turns stop-to-center).

Oh well dang. I didn’t even notice 38a1. Well son of a———

I bought the plates from Debella. I just emailed them to shoe them the receipt and the data plate I got sent. Maybe they can resend me the correct Ones. That’s a good catch, I didn’t even see it. I refuse to wear my glasses every day, maybe my New Years resolution should be to actually wear them.

I'm sure he'll make it right, including sending new rivets.

Sorry I didn't notice them sooner (your Dec.24th post).

Just for clarity....
The Weight & Dimension data plate is M38A1
The Servicing Data plate is M38A1
The Shifting Pattern data plate is M38A1
The Serial Number data plate is M38A1

As far as I know, the other 2 plates (Responsible Agency and Caution) plates are the same for both trucks.

Weren't we just grousing about unlabeled parts coming from labeled bins?

Good luck!

April,

I've used Robert at Data Plates 4 U for both of my Jeeps and am very happy with the results. They have the correct font and inspectors stamps (crossed cannons or eagles, etc.) to put all your info on the plates.

https://dataplates4u.com/jeep-m38/

I never compared price, but believe he sells his plates stamped for the same price others charge for non-stamped plates.

Mike B

New t90 case came in.

That's the date code in the upper left of your picture...hard to read but looks like B.1.72 (Feb 1 1972)

Mike B

Hi Coastie,
Looks very nice! Does it measure up ok?

Just curious, does it have anything stamped (not cast, stamped) in the top flange on or near it (where the gear shifter bolts up)?

Mine is stamped K135-2. From what I've gathered, it's either the serial number or a date code, but haven't been able to find anything definitive to decipher it. Maybe one of the guru's here can help with that.

I know the case has a casting date code cast into it on the side, like Mike said, 1972 (same year I enlisted in the Marine Corps).

Good luck!

The case does not have any additional stamping. Does have a date of 72 that you see in the casting.

Everything spec’d out great. Just like Metalshapers nos, my nos was a thousandth different.

Mine has a stamped number Ron. I’ll go back and look at my photos.

I saw the code cypher somewhere.

Feb. 1 72 is the casting date.

The other code is stamped in the top where the shift tower cover sits on the lip.

Letter is the month, skip letter I. Day, Year