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I bought the frame and body parts pictured earlier to use on my existing M38. I went back today and bought the "rest" of the Jeep. I will still probably combine the two into one but at least now I should have a heatlhy spare parts bin.

The motor has no SN on the water pump boss but it does seem to have a lot of the correct M38 gear. It turns freely by hand but it had not been run in all the years the PO owned it. It's too early to tell if I'll use this motor or the one currently in my running Jeep. The running one has been converted to 12V. I may take a crack at bringing this one back and keeping the 24V which I know virtually nothing about. Time to dig out the service manuals again.

Clean the serial pad with DOT 3 brake fluid and then with a scotch brite pad. The original numbers were stamped very lightly.

Don't loose that little "L" bracket hanging on the block behind the generator.

That's an early block used with the small frame, open faced starter.

You might advertise that early civvy under the dash heater on the Willystech sale board.

I did clean the serial pad and there is definitely no number there. That's a pretty good indication the block has been decked at some point, right?

I've been trying to find info on the "JAPAN ORDNANCE COMMAND" but there isn't much out there. From what I can tell, this thing could have left there a complete "salad" of M38 parts after being refurbished....which I suppose could be said of any military Jeep? That would maybe explain why an early block is in a '52?

I do have the starter and it's an early one like you said - MBP 4301UT. Ironically, I came across a stash of these old starters a few weeks ago and have been selling them off. I may keep a few now until I know I have one that works. I'm completely lost when it comes to knowing anything about the 24V system.

The transfer case has a "BROWN-LIPE GEAR BOX" tag on it which I have never seen on an M38 either. Is that typical? I thought BROWN-LIPE was officially SPICER by '52 (?).

And yes, I will be selling the civy Harrison heater. The fan works but I'm not sure if the heater core is any good.

Ryan the 24 volt is nothing to worry about, since you have the parts you might as well make it original.

Decided to dive into the "new" frame clean up effort last night. First, the running M38 pushing its soon-to-be new frame into the garage. Admittedly, it is now bittersweet driving the "old" M38 knowing it will soon be reduced to a pile of random parts on the garage floor. Yes, it will rise from the ashes, but still....



It's amazing how much quicker it gets each time I dismantle a jeep (or some part of one). I'm hoping I can say the same when it comes time for re-assembly.



Bare frame back out in the driveway. I can carry it myself now. Spent about 6 hours and just as many wire wheels getting it cleaned up. Lots of interesting colors to be seen as the layers are ground away.





I'm torn here about throwing down the money for sandblasting and really doing this right or trying to keep to a smaller budget but with less impressive results. Since I don't want to spend the cash and I want to be driving this thing by spring, you will see the art of cutting corners as this thread continues. And besides, I do want a solid driver but don't want to lose that "down and dirty feel".


Frame washed and degreased and back in the garage.


I finally bit the bullet and lugged home a Lincoln 140 mig welder. I'm going to try and fire it up tonight for a few small repairs to the rear bumper. An idiot with a welder. Stand back....

Cant wait to watch this come together, and to see it on the trail!

Frame cleaned and minor repairs made. I straightened a few of the significant dents in the bumpers and welded a couple cracks. The small dents and bent safety chain eyelets were left alone....they add character.

POR-15 time!



I used Chassis Saver on my 3A and people either seem to love or hate POR so I wanted to try it myself. I did not prep the frame with the recommended POR cleaner so if it falls off next week I still can't necessarily blame it on the product. I brushed it on this time instead of spraying it like I did on the 3A. Brushing sure is a lot cleaner but it's tougher (if not impossible) to get all the little cracks and crevices.

After a quick shot of el-cheapo primer (let the howling begin!) over the tacky POR, I let it sit for a few days. It took me nearly that long to hang all this freakin' plastic.

The paintery:


And the painter:


And the paint:


This color was derived from a paint shop scan of an NOS M-38 grille. It looks way off but I think I like it anyways. I'll be able to compare it better once the frame dries.

Meanwhile, the desecration of the other M38 continues. This is the first time I've seen her topless. She was a little shy at first but quickly overcame her inhibitions. :D

I've busy in the garage.



The tub turned out to need a lot more work than I anticipated. This is my first ever attempt at welding so it's been trial by fire. Lots of improvement needed but it's coming along. I replaced both wheel houses, the floor riser, and the toolbox. For anyone curious, the MD Juan toolbox is a complete nightmare.



Partially primed body parts installed for a test fit. All good.



Now I need to figure out the art of body filler and paint....

I'm on the home stretch now. I won't be able to give it a proper shakedown run until spring but it runs great around the yard. Still need to figure out what I'm going to do for front turn signals.

http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... ht=stained
http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php? ... ht=stained

Ryan, check the links above for front marker light ideas..

BTW.. nice uncracked windshield glass ya got there

RICKG wrote:
BTW.. nice uncracked windshield glass ya got there

LOL...The cuts on my fingers are finally healing too...

100+ miles on the reassembly this week and so far so good. The overdrive shifts like delicious butter compared to the one on my 3A. Here's my 20 footer from 20'. Pic was taken Sunday in Old Town, ME just upstream from the original Old Town canoe factory.

Good looking M38. Sharp license plate too!