Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:17 pm
one more little piece:
Looks like you got some "goodies" to play with when you get back to your project willysmjeeps.com
Willys Military Jeep Forum
https://www.willysmjeeps.com/
Combat Medic budget 1952 M38
Page 4 of 5
Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:48 pm
Looks like you got some "goodies" to play with when you get back to your project Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:41 am
SO, no updates for a while, but here I am on the downward slope counting days till I come home. I've got most of the parts I need bookmarked and waiting to buy a few days before I leave here. One thing I got a bit stumped on was the paint color. I've searched the forum and found the correct paint code and saw a post Wes made on the colors. "It is either Gillespie's 23070 or Army Jeep Parts' Late WWII OD" I wanted to ask opinions on the two I had been looking at. One was the AJP paint and one I found on eBay that's a 24087. Which off the shelf would you guys advise I grab for painting mine?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271607742523?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
or
https://www.armyjeepparts.net/p-2285-aj ... allon.aspx
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271607742523?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
or
https://www.armyjeepparts.net/p-2285-aj ... allon.aspx
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 12:42 pm
If you want the color she left Willys with use the AJP paint Late WWII OD Semi-gloss (2430).
If you want the color the Army started painting all their stuff in 1954/55 then but the 24087.
If you want the color the Army started painting all their stuff in 1954/55 then but the 24087.
Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 11:11 pm
This is why you're the man Wes. Thank you!wesk wrote:If you want the color she left Willys with use the AJP paint Late WWII OD Semi-gloss (2430).
If you want the color the Army started painting all their stuff in 1954/55 then but the 24087.
On another note. The 5th wheel was delivered a week ago. 4 of them are the Willys truck rims with the 1/8" inch hole and 5" wide one is apparently correct at 4.5" wide and has the 1/8" hole. Even though they aren't all correct they'll look way better than the wagon wheels that were on it at first.
Less than a month till I'm back in the good ol US of A and get to start with the rewire, repaint and stencil of my M38 along with all the little things she needs. I'm sure I'll be posting way too many pics as soon as I get started!
Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:13 am
Paint and stencils, 7x16 NDT and headlight guards are all in the hands of FedEx or UPS and on their way to my house. I think the last big thing to buy is going to be seat cushions and covers. I talked to Beachwood canvas about them, and seemed like a decent price for ready to install cushion/covers.
I'm not looking forward to painting it. I'm a great wrencher and can do anything I need to (though I try to stray from gearing axles) Body work is not something I've done a lot of. I'm sure with the right amount of prep work and patience I'll be ok.
I'm not looking forward to painting it. I'm a great wrencher and can do anything I need to (though I try to stray from gearing axles) Body work is not something I've done a lot of. I'm sure with the right amount of prep work and patience I'll be ok.
Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 3:28 am
quick question, would I be ok without running an inner tube flap? I'm going to have the rims nice and sand blasted and painted, but I just saw today that the tube flap even existed ... scratching my head if I should get em or not
Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:16 am
Probably so long as they are absolutely smooth (no thorns or sharp edges).
Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:44 pm
well, got home and finally saw my M38, was going to stick a 24V charger on it so I could get her started up with the new carb, but the battery in the cowl exploded and leaked into the tub.... 
Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:33 am
Ahhhh, Man.....
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 9:48 pm
Well, every cloud has a silver lining, right? I was donated 2 Optima yellow top 51R batteries. This week I'll be putting the solex on and getting it set up so she'll be running again at least. Can't find a decent priced place to sand blast my rims locally .... cheapest I found was $60 a rim. I was reading on some hot rod resto forum that the average is $45 a rim. So, I'll be wire wheeling and hand sanding them to prep for paint. Wish me luck
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 9:58 pm
Do you have a compressor? I think you can get
a Horror Freight sandblaster for less than that.
If they are unmounted you could try paint
remover or maybe a butane torch and scraper.
Take care,
a Horror Freight sandblaster for less than that.
If they are unmounted you could try paint
remover or maybe a butane torch and scraper.
Take care,
Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 6:49 pm
Got lucky scraping around Craigslist and found a guy that is doing 4 rims for $60 total. Dropped them off Saturday and they're supposed to be done Tuesday afternoon
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 12:39 pm
Back to the inner flap thing, opinions if I should run a flap on this one? The other 3 look great so I'm going to start painting, but this little guy has some bad pitting.
and 16x5 with the small extra hole next to the lug holes means Willys truck rims too if I remember correctly?
and 16x5 with the small extra hole next to the lug holes means Willys truck rims too if I remember correctly?
Posted: Fri Nov 27, 2015 12:47 pm
I'd look for another wheel. If you do use that wheel you need to camfer the valve stem hole's sharp edge and use a flap. You could also try using an epoxy filler type primer.
Yes both the M38/M38A1 16x4.5 and the Willys Pickup 16x5.0 had the 1/8" hole in the log circle.
Yes both the M38/M38A1 16x4.5 and the Willys Pickup 16x5.0 had the 1/8" hole in the log circle.