willysmjeeps.com

All lights are sorted and working. Battery cables installed, and finishing up the gauge panel. Need to wire up engine side now.

I'm on a 2 week vacation and have sunny weather for at least half of it.

Hope to have brakes finalized by end of sunday.


Edit- forgot to mention.... RonD- thank you for the ebay lead on the NDTs. I canceled my back orders and placed an order on ebay for three STA ndts 700-16. 1 is a spare and 2 for the m100 trailer.
Cost way more, but I'm tired of waiting. I ordered a spare in July 2021 and it kept getting punt kicked every quarter.

I heard from a couple of popular distributors that next shipment of 700x16 from manufacturers will be next summer, mid 2023

Front blackout. I will add another to the rear eventually.



Turn signals all are working.

I made the upper left the drive light, upper right bulb is brakes, lower (was the BO bulb) is my turn signal.


It is not that great of a picture. To determine what works were being used and when, I take the wires to a board, labeled and used my meter to see what had continuity. I flipped the switch in all the configuration and made my notes.

This is how I made sure all my functions I want to use are working.



I laid the board in the tub and used jumper wires to test, which worked. Now I know which to hook up where.



I will order some more cloth covered wire to fix that Turn signal issue I found with the harness I bought. The harness had brake and turn signal on the rear as the same. I split that, and have temp wires in place.

Ebay tires showed up in two days.


1 spare , 2 for M100.

I have time to mount them later this weekend if I get around to it.

I spend a very short time yesterday just doing detail work on the wiring behind dash.

Glad to hear you got the tires April.
I think you got the last NDT's they had.
They're Firestone aren't they?

YT fan club is parched.....

RonD2 wrote:Glad to hear you got the tires April.
I think you got the last NDT's they had.
They're Firestone aren't they?

YT fan club is parched.....

I bought STA's.

And-- as I type this- it is raining outside and YT is being edited now. I did put up a "short" yesterday.

Got brakes bled today. I have a mitivac but it so much easier/ faster I'd you have someone push the brake pedal. Mom is still here, and we accomplished without an argument.

One fitting a while back, the "y" at the master cylinder banjo bolt was stripped so I got a new one. Installed no problem. Bled brakes and that pedal sure is tight! Barely had to press it to get resistance.

Installed driver seat again, and checked brake lights one more time. All is good.

Installed a few manifold studs, and realized the two Dorman 7/16-14 x 3/8-24s for the fore and aft ends of the block are too short. I looked online and found ARP has them in 2.25" so I ordered. Last time I ordered ARP, it took 10 months and that was pre-covid.

Messed around with my heat riser flapper. The casting inside was too rough so I took a Dremel to it and smoothed the inside out. The flapper closes much smoother now.

I'm going to take the manifolds to the machine shop Monday and have them shave the surface flat.

CoastieReid wrote:.

I'm going to take the manifolds to the machine shop Monday and have them shave the surface flat.

A detail overlooked by some. You wont regret it.

Took to base hobby shop and mounted the spare.
Took my a total of 30 minutes. Most of that looking for the lube.


Have a bit of a Gelato adiction in my house this year.
Good use of the jars to hold all that extra aire.


Nothing really done today.

Exhaust/intake manifold at the machine shop. No ETA, but that I am sure will be quick.

I have fuel lines to run still, new oil pan for the engine to install, coolant hoses to go on, a pipe nipple on the front of the head to take off, plug wires to make ( I foolishly bought a crap set not knowing) so I went to Napa, drive shafts (propeller shafts) to install, and eventually the exhaust pipes.

Fluids to fill.
Turn key soon.

CoastieReid wrote:...a pipe nipple on the front of the head to take off,

Hi April,
Not connecting the by-pass hose to the water pump?

The base hobby shop looks like you could eat off the floor...nice!
I thought all those shops were closed and gone years ago.

Bypass as in the yellow line between head and pump?



The red arrow is a cut off pipe nipple.

I don't remember but I think it was attached to the cab heater.

Hi April,
I think your yellow line is cab heater related as you recall. Don't know about that.

Not the same as the water pump bypass hose (maybe more properly called a thermostat bypass hose).
It's there to help the engine temp warm up more evenly by allowing some coolant flow past the thermostat on startup until the thermostat fully opens at 160-degrees.
No hot spots around the combustion hot spots. That's the idea anyway.

The ORD9 on page 11, Figure 01-1, Item B, shows it pretty well.
So does Figure 23, Item L, on page 107 of TM9-8012.
Here’s what one looks like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182220868407

Your pipe nipple (red arrow) doesn't look cut off to me, it looks normal.
I assume this is the nipple you said you had to remove?
All you need is another like it to put in place of that hex-head pipe plug on the top of the water pump.
MWM has NOS here: https://shop.midwestmilitary.com/produc ... se-nipple/
On the M38 it belongs there.

I took the liberty of marking your photo to show where the hose connects:

Ron, I went back in old photos, it was there, you can kind of see it. You are right.

The PO had plumbing valves attached to the hoses on this engine- I wouldn't trust anything on how it was.

I have the books around here somewhere. Mom leaves tomorrow- I can find all the things she moved and couldn't remember where she put them.

My longer exhaust/intake manifold studs came in two boxes, 2 studs....