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I am sanding down the paint on my 1952 M38. Fenders, hood, side panels,are all easy. When it comes to the smaller areas, like the rain channel? from the front of the cowl into the engine compartment, or around the glovebox, or any small places, where a DA won't work, what does the community recommend? I used aircraft stripper about 35 years ago, but the new stuff works about as yogurt. I could use a fine wire brush, but that might be too scratchy. After reading posts regarding sandblasting, I'm worried that sand would go everywhere, as in engine brakes etc. Then there is sandpaper and elbow grease. Seems like a lot of work. Ideas?

Thanks!

From the sound of your post, you are NOT tearing the jeep down.

If you were to take it down to parts then sandblasting is a definite option, you can sandblast the body and fenders without problems, just turn the pressure down to about 100 PSI and go at it... if using pressure higher than that then shoot it at a 45 degree angle so as not to heat up the metal...

I have sandblasted my '52 Canadian, an M-38A1 and a '51 Willys Wagon with this method without problems...

All small parts go into a blast cabinet, where I blast them with fine coal slag... really takes the paint and rust off with minimal dust...

Hope this helps...

Hi Adam,
If the existing paint in those small areas is sound (no flaking off, etc) and the metal underneath isn't corroded or delaminating, there's no reason to sand it to bare metal. All that need be done to get new primer and/or paint to adhere is give it a good scuffing by hand with a scratch pad or maybe 600 grit wet paper, then a soap and water scrub-brush wash down to remove oils, grit, and debris, then maybe a wipe down with lint-free rag/paper towels and mineral spirits. Might have to use some ingenuity to fashion a tool or two to get into small areas.

If there's bad paint and/or metal in those areas you'll probably need to take it apart to get at it properly.

Then there's places that are impossible to get at and will bug you forever (at least they do me). For example, my windshield is very nice and solid with a good coat of primer and paint on it. When I went to install the wiper vacuum hard lines to the lower pivot arms, I had to re-drill and tap the clip screw holes because they were closed up with crud and had been painted over years ago. That area of the frame is supposed to be an open rectangular tube. Mine is filled (packed solid) with dry flaked rust. No way to get at it without serious surgery (cutting and welding) on the entire frame. One day, hopefully long after I depart the planet, I'm pretty sure that frame will snap in half when somebody uses it as leverage to get out of the front seat. Dang it! Did I say that out loud?

Color matching a new top coat to existing top coat can be challenging, but I have first hand recollections as a Lance Corporal several decades ago with slightly mis-matched colors on military gear. It's not uncommon in real life. It's what's in the paint locker that day. May not be acceptable for a museum or show piece?

My 2 cents.........either way, it is a lot of work. Worth it in the end!

I concur with RonD2 in respect to the tenacious paint in those areas. If the paint is solid for as many years as it has been applied, just hit it with some 400 grit sandpaper and apply the coats of new paint over the top. It works for me.

Sandblasting is the only way. I have heard bad things about guys using acid.

If the goal is to rebuild it then you have lots of options. Remove engine and trans, etc... Almost sounds like your only after a fresh coat of paint. Agree scuffing up if paint under is attached to solid metal. Scotch-brute pads are terrific for scuffing. You can also get them as rotary tool add one. May be an option for you. Search for the Roloc scotch-brite wheels. On an air powered angle grinder they can do wonders.