willysmjeeps.com

Just curious.

The serial number on my M38 Data Plates both match at
MC 59253. Unfortunately I am not able to find a hood number. I am sure it has been discussed, I did a search and could'nt find anything,but is there any way of coming close to figuring out a hood number.

I checked the serial number database and my serial number is only 6 off from a USMC M-38. Could mine be a USMC M-38?

No big deal if its a lost cause. Just trying to see what I could come up with.

Thanks
Dana

Still have a nice set of snow tires that someone can have if they want them.

Located Cleveland GA

What you are looking for is a "Derived" hood number. Yes we can help get you in the ball park.

First let me say there are a lot of folks in this hobby who want it to be all it can be. Sharing, helping and just plain being honest with each other is how we make this work. There are a lot of serious researchers out there who put a ton of effort to find as much info as possible about these jeeps and help others with that info. Hood numbers are perfect example of their work. Over the last half century hoods have moved form one jeep to another, numbers have been stripped off to the bare metal on repaints and so on loosing many hood numbers for ever. We wish to keep this hobby honest. If we are going to start developing "Derived" hood numbers let's be sure to do it in a way that won't trip up these future researchers. The easiest way to do this is to use a system to "Derive" a hood number only to a close group of numbers then in the last 4 or 5 number position use an obviously "Derived number" , one that jumps right out at the researcher. Yes that best last 4 or 5 digits to insert in your "Derived" hood number are the jeep's serial number.

How do you do this? Well I compare your jeep's serial to our database of known original hood numbers and we use the first 4 digits to start and finish with your jeep's serial number.

In your case serial 59243 lies between serials MC58766 (Known hood number 20907585 and MC59319 known hood number 20908058. Subtracting 58766 from 59253 = 487. Now add 487 to 20907585 = 20908072. So the closest hood number we can derive that would be reasonably close to your jeep's original hood number 20908072. But since these jeeps did not roll out of the Factory in numerical hood order number vs serial number there was a lot of deviations caused by slow downs and repacing of individual and groups of jeeps coming off the line. Also the number trail did not follow in sequence all the way from the first M38 MC10001 Sept 1950 thru the last M38 MC72329 Jul 1952. Each batch of M38's ordered on a specific Contract number had a block of hood numbers set aside for that contract's jeeps only. There were 5 contracts. So go figure that out. We have already done the figuring.

Now back to keeping the playing field in this hobby honest. Instead of using a very "MAYBE" hood number 20908072 we use one of these choices: 20959253, 20909253 or 20908253! When a researcher of this hobby 20 years from now records your hood number he will know it was a "Derived" hood number for the last 3, 4 or 5 digits you used.

Thanks for the info Wes. I just wanted to try an get as close as accurately possible. What you did makes perfect sense and will work just fine for my M38.

I noticed on the database there was a USMC M38 with a serial number only 5 less than mine. That's why I was wondering if it may have been a USMC version.

Thanks for all the hard work you guys do. It has been incredibly helpful during my restoration.

Just trying to figure out now whether to buy a NOS floor pan. Mine has been replaced with sheet metal. Looks pretty decent but its not obviously not correct. I did one about 25 years ago and was able to buy a NOS floor for $200. Now the are over $1000 plus shipping.

Thanks again

Dana

Hi Dana,
I think you are very fortunate to have a M38 with matching dash and patent plates. I believe that is truly a rare thing some 65 years after they rolled off the assembly line. If the rest of your M38 is as original then you have a real nugget in hand!

I'm not alone in saying we'd like to see some good photos! Well taken, they're each worth a thousand words!

Good luck!

Just my 2 cents --- after seeing your question about Marines and the M38. My research indicates the Marines pretty much skipped over the M38 (didn't use them at all). Possible they took some for evaluation. During that time frame the Marines had plenty of MB's fresh out of depot rebuild, and were messing around with the M422 Mighty Mite --- until they figured it out and went straight to using the M38A1 instead. Marine version M38A1'a have certain distinguishing characteristics over Army M38A1's. I've never seen anything to indicate there was ever a "Marine" version (or contract) for the M38.

Dana,
You don't say what floor pan you're after, but have you seen this?

https://store.midwestmilitary.com/product-p/mwm131.htm

Good luck!

Brent Mullins has NOS M38 front floor pans, those that include the fire wall and those that end at the firewall. Don't know what he gets for them.

I have got to go by there one of these days...

Brian,
When or if you do give me a holler.

We have been talking about a trip to San Saba, if we do i will let you know.

I have a bunch of photos that I will post. I found my jeep up in Wisconsin. Drove straight from Gainesville GA, loaded up the jeep and drove straight through back home.

The jeep was about %95 complete and still in the stock 24V military configuration. The cold and dry weather did a good job of keeping the jeep relatively rust free. The only bad area was where the hat channels on the floor had rusted through and they had removed them. They replaced the braces with some homemade channels and just cut out and sectioned in some sheet metal. That is where my dilema is. Ill post some pictures. Feel free to weigh in with any opinions. The side braces on the side right behind the seats had been removed at some time, most likely due to rust. The sheet metal had been replaced but they left out the side braces. This cause the side panels to bow in. I am going to attempt to straighten them before replacing the braces.

Other than that the jeep was complete.

I was going to just drive the jeep for a couple of years and then restore it. It needed the brake system replaced and by the time I removed everything I decided I would just restore it.

I disassembled and sandblasted everything down to every nut and bolt. The drive train is now complete. I rebuilt the motor but have not started it yet. Waiting to complete the tub so I can set it on and wire it. Plus did'nt want to start it and then have it sit for year. Kind of hard on the motors

So far I have been very lucky. Had the original radiator tested and there were no problems. Fuel tank is in good condition. Had the starter rebuilt and my local shop and it tested good. Generator and voltage regulator had already been overhauled. Had Debella rebuild the carb and vacume/fuel pump. They came out really nice. All 5 rims were in nice condition. All seats and top bows were there.

I replaced the front bumper with one from DeBella. The original was pretty beat up and had extra holes drilled in it for the tow brackets.

Ill try and update as my project progresses. Ill post some pictures in the next day or two.

Thanks for all the help from everyone.

Dana

1951 M38, My photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

Yes photos would be great!