willysmjeeps.com

A previous post on this topic identified the same challenge, but a solution was not explained.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... ic&t=11247

The author stated: "what is especially hard to get at it is that terminal screw. I cannot use a screw driver to remove the screw because the screw head is below the edge of the distributor.
Perhaps I can remove the screw with a small ignition wrench, but cannot replace the screw with it."

I have the same challenge. There is ridge on the distributor housing preventing access to the screw with a screw driver. The screw is below the edge of the distributor housing ridge.
Am I missing something simple?
Does the entire top plate need to be removed or rotated just to change the points?

You have several choices. Sometimes you can rotate the advance plate slightly and get a regular common screwdriver blade on the slot at a slight angle or you can invest in a multitude of specialty offset drivers.

Tried the first three tools shown. No space.
Not enough clearance between distributor ridge and terminal screw.
Turning the advance plate clockwise might move the screw past the ridge for access with a screwdriver.
How do you turn the advance plate clockwise?
Do you have to remove the two screws indicated in first post photo?

Do you know the size if the terminal screw head? Is it 1/4 inch?

Looks like you need set #4



https://www.ebay.com/i/324147499433?chn ... 1&mkcid=28

I keep all the sets shown in my tool box. I do not recall ever having to spend more than a couple of minutes removing that screw. If you wish you can remove the rotor and the two plate screws/retainers and lift the plate enough to get that terminal screw out. I believe it's a #8 screw which would use a 5/16" socket normally but you still have no room for the socket.

What I did so I will never have this problem again was to replace the ring terminals on the coil wire and the condenser wire with fork terminals.

Now I never have to remove the terminal screw in order to remove or attach the wires.

Just loosen the screw with an ignition wrench and the wires will easily pull out or slip back into place without removing the screw.

Use the same ignition wench to tighten the screw.

My terminal screw is a good 15 degrees counterclockwise from that pictured. It is completely behind the ridge on the distributor housing, making it very difficult to access.
Your picture shows a terminal screw with much easier access. Is the photo from an M38A1 distributor? Wonder why the difference?

I just borrowed that photo from Wes K. The terminal screw on my M38A1 distributor is like yours. It took me hours to get the screw back into place after the first time I removed it with an ignition wrench.

The second time I removed it is when I changed the wire connector ends. Now I will never have to remove the terminal screw again, thank goodness!

Actually, it was a bit easier getting the terminal screw started the second time without any of the wires attached.

When I rotate the viewing angle of Jeepdaddy's distributor to match my photo both appear to be exactly alike except for that small empty hole I have marked.

The level of difficulty would be exactly the same from this view.

Neiko low clearance screw driver arrived today. Thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a try and change the points and condenser - after I get my rings freed up (hopefully).
Waiting for warmer weather, hands too cold for delicate work in cold garage. Finally above zero today - nice! Thanks for the excellent photo comparison.

I think my condenser and points all came with fork terminals but could be mistaken.

An easy field expedient to make one from the other is to use a sharp pair of side-cutting wire pliers. Two snips to open the ring just wide enough to fit.

And I always thought a snipped ring terminal fit a round screw better than a straight fork terminal. Good luck!

If I understand the situation--you are trying to remove the small bolt where the points, condenser and primary wire all connect.

Looking at the points sets and condenser I use, they all have the forked terminal ends so All you have to do is loosen the bolt, not remove it, with an ignition wrench and slip the points and condenser wire out and replace the same way. A little bit of jugging, but not hard. I use the Heavy Duty Standard Blue Streak points and condenser which have the forked terminal. There are others that have the eyelet but they are usually off shore brands. Blue Streak points and condensers are pricey but I have had excellent results (years of service) and keep a few sets on hand for new projects and if I ever need a replacement.

Standard Blue Streak Breaker Points AL-4556XP
Standard Blue Streak Condenser AL-111X