willysmjeeps.com

Technically this is a CJ3B jeep question but I am rebuilding the F134 engine and I don't have a fuel pump.

I see originals with dual action and glass sediment bulb on top for sale on ebay for $100 - they say rebuildable and looks in good shape and then buy a rebuild kit for $45.00

https://www.ebay.com/itm/176302908967

Or go with new aftermarket from KaiserWillys for $100

https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/n ... gJdbPD_BwE

If you would like to keep an original theme with your rebuild, go with the correct fuel pump and rebuild it. If you should find an NOS fuel pumps they should be rebuilt as their diaphragms will not stand up to todays fuels. Check your parts manual as I believe you will also need the 1/8 inch thick spacer to install it correctly.

I followed your link to the fuel pump and I do not believe it is the correct / original fuel pump for your engine. I believe AC 4698 or 9562 would be the fuel pump you would want for the original look. There is an AC 4692 for $40 on ebay along with several AC 9562 fuel pumps including an NOS one. To me, they both look alike and I have several of each.

Glass bowel on top is correct.



The early Service Manual SM1002R5 and the late SM1046 Both list AC 5594032 however the SM1046 also lists the Carter 21955



Found this 4032 NOS reman for $79 at: https://governmenttransitsurplus.com/pr ... 1645573492[/img]

What year is your 3B. I have the early 1956 edition of the parts list as well as the late 1962 edition.

All those fuel pumps do look a lot alike!

I know this is a 1959 CJ3B but I was thinking about posting some more stuff about the engine with photos to identify the block and flywheels as an exercise to jog my memory.

If that is ok with everyone I will get some photos up this week.

I bought this jeep in 2015 and someone was in the process at one point putting another engine in. I think it may be a conglomerate of different engine parts.
I looked up the generator and starter model numbers and date codes they are from 1959 Delco Remy and are probably from the original engine

The block and 2 different flywheels are there too.

Will post more later.

Do you have the 1962 parts book and SM-1046 service manual?





or even this 67 issue:

Wes,

I have the 1962 version I found online. Are any of the others in print? I have not seen any. Also I tried to look up some old motors books that list references to generators/starters and what vehicles are compatible but could not find any for sale.

Here is where I am at. one of the previous owners started swapping parts and changed out the front engine plate and generator.
With it being a 1952 block (I think) - the vent cap on top - also there was a draft tube in the pile but not on the engine- and the early rear fly wheel with timing marks on the valve cover, I think it was from a willys pickup or station wagon. Also has the early casting number.

The current crankshaft to flywheel bolts are large dowel and don't match up with the 129 tooth flywheel, but do with the old green flywheel.

here are the photos.

Here are a few more of the old front engine plate that is the same color as the engine green and the flywheel that came of it - same color and 97 tooth.





This is the 129 tooth flywheel I think was from the original engine.



Casting numbers on driver and passenger side





Serial number has no prefix so that doesn't help, D is 0.10 undersize crank I think?

I have both the 1962 and the 1967 in print.

I have the same block I pulled out of a 53 M38A1 sitting in my shed. Came with an M38A1 MD serial.



This block was introduced to the Willys trucks and wagon in 1949. Have you visited this web site?

https://cj3b.info/SerialNos/EngineNosPlot.html

https://cj3b.info/Hurricane.html

Wes,

Yes! I have been looking at Mr. Redomnds CJ3B.info website. It is very informative.

Do you think my assessment is correct on the engine being from a 1952-3 Willys pickup or Wagon?

That front engine plate that came off the engine (has same color paint) has both ears forward and then some weird home made bracket at the generator area.

Also what do you think I should do on the flywheels? Should I clean up the original with the 129 tooth ring gear and then drill the holes out or just swap the ring gear over to the flywheel that fits the crank?

Also on that crank- I think it is the straight dowel bolts, not the tapered dowels right?

I forget, when did they change from Tapered dowels to straight and then the original 1959 flywheel seems to have smaller straight bolts holes for the two .

I'd stay with the correct 129 tooth flywheel and straight shoulder dowell bolts that the 3B came with to start.

Here's the instructions:


The switch was somewhere between 1953 and 1960.

Odds are the engine came from a truck or wagon. Just odd the serial has no prefix!

Thanks Wes,

On that crankshaft it has what looks to me like the larger straight bolts or are what look like the larger bolts actually the taper bolts with a head on them?

The flywheel that was on that engine (97 tooth ring gear and green paint) has very large holes for the two and looks to have been switched from dowels already.


Or did they go with a larger straight bolt first then down to a smaller bolt like what is on the 129 tooth ring gear flywheel that came out of the original engine?

Or were all factory installed flywheels done with the taper dowels originally up through 1961?

I was looking through my notes and online and could not find any answer.

I know you can swap ring gears and the 129 tooth looks in good shape with no chewed up sections.

Switching seems to also require checking flywheel run out so a machine shop sounds like the way to go.

You can check the runout with a magnetic base dial indicator.

I talked to Wes yesterday and it does look like the engine is from a 1949-1952 pickup or station wagon. The early F134 has one or two bolts to the bell housing that are smaller diameter and the block at the starter area does not have the extra reinforcement flange casting.

The vacuum advance distributor is another pickup/wagon item.

I will see how this engine looks but may try to find a later block to match up better with the bell housing.

Also it would seem that at the Willy’s factory they used two taper dowels to mount the flywheel until 1960ish?

I contacted a Willy’s engine rebuilder in northwest Arkansas and they seem to have a lot of rebuildable engines I can do a core exchange.