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I wonder if the electronic ignition for an M151 distributer can be adapted to operate in an M38 distributer. I would sure like to ditch the points and capacitor in mine. Anybody have any experiance with this?

I have made it work, but it is not a drop in. The two distributors rotate in opposite directions, so where the spark is being created on one distributer, it has not even begun on the other. There is a requirement to notch the dist housing in a new location for the ignition plate so it is better timed to the cap.

I only saw one M38A1Cdn in the service with this mod done. For the most part it was just too much trouble.

If you had clicked on the word search above and enterred "electronic ignition" in the block and enterred M38 tech forum you would have arrived at this post:

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... c+ignition

I did the conversion one year ago, and it still works fine !

Before this i had several problems with the condensors, they seemed to have a short life.

ERik

Thanks for the info I am going to order in the M151A2 ign kit and do the "upgrade" on my M38. Life is to short to be diddling with points and a condenser.

Hi how much are the kits?

I'd like to hear how you made out with the conversion ,Bubagun. I've wanted to change mine for some time. I've been through a few points and condensors too.
Maserik.. any further tips on the installation? I looked at the pics posted on the g forum..grantj

a few details : for easy job, uinstall the distributor, use a 'dremel' to cut out a new 'cutout' to fit the module in the new position, on pic 2 ( right) you can see the exact position of the hall sensor. succes !

Hi Guys,

I read with interest the article and video on the M38A1 conversion to solid state ignition using a Swiss unit, designed for the M151.
From my 2007 restoration, to date I have gone through a handful of condensers from unknown origins, and decided to convert.

One of our UK suppliers now imports the unit at £50 per unit.
It was a straight forward conversion and once the new locating notch is made in the dizzy housing, I set the timing at dead on 5 deg, btdc, and plug gaps at 25 thou. and it fired up instantly and ran smoother.

My question is, should the plug gaps be opened to 32--36 thou, as on the Mutt, and or advance the timing ????

Any advice appreciated, as usual,

Thanks,

Mike.

I think most folks have been happy with 10 or 12 deg advance. Plug gap depends on condition/output of coil, resistance in wires & plugs and compression. You can experiment with different gaps till you get a happy medium between easy start and no miss high RPM ops.

Thank for that info' Wes,

I will give it a few runs and report back.

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Mike M38A1

Hello I just wanted to share my newest experience regarding this topic:

I just installed the late (swiss) solid state ignition on my M38A1:
- Eriks conversion posted here works, the 45° degrees shift counter-clockwise are so precise, I did not have to re-adjust my timing.
- works not only on M38 also on M38A1.

Thank you
and keep´em rolling

Philipp

There is a place on line that advertises "solid state ignition conversions" for $55. and the picture shows a distributor plate and a few other parts. It does not say it is for a 151. Has anyone seen this? Anyone out there buy and use one? I'm not sure if I should provide their name here. All I'm looking for is more reliability in starting and running.

Thanks for any input here.

There are only the choices in electronic system replacements already discussed many times.

1. Pertronics Hall effect point replacement.

2. Early M151 system Hall effect point replacement.

3. Late M151 system Hall effect point replacement.

All 3 simply replace the points & condenser. No magical increase in power or reliability of an original point system properly maintained in good condition! Yes it does reduce the attention needed maintain the system but that is not always the best path.

Just ask the seller which system of the 3 he is selling.

Thanks, Wes. I think I'll stay with the original parts method.

Questions: You wrote earlier most guys are happy with 10-12 degrees of advance. The book and timing mark read 5 degrees. What does advancing it more do? Does it help in starting? Is it harmful at all? I'm not a mechanic but I try to do most basic maintenance myself. If 10-12 is desirable, how does one achieve this and is a 24v timing light needed?


My goal here is to get my 38 reliable enough to take it on next year's Lincoln Hwy. convoy with the MVPA. I'm looking at tune up, belts, radiator flush/fill, brake adjustment and clean/lube/adjust my starter switch.


Thanks for your help.