willysmjeeps.com

Here's a simple one,

I've just been crawling under my M201 and M38 in the dark and cold outside.
It looks like the front props are interchageable between the jeeps (the M201 is basically a licence built 24v MB). But I'm cold wet tired and miserable so I thought I'd ask you guys.
The reason I'm asking is because the sliding joint at the transfer box end of my M38 front prop has a little more play than I'm comfortable with, ie I can jiggle it up and down (suspect the greeks used too much greece on it) mind you I'm not sure how much play is normal but it certainly has more than the M201.
I think I have a spare front prop for my m201 which I originall bought for the MB that looks like it may never get done! but its a long drive to my storage.
So if the MB and M38 front props are interchangeable I'll simply run down and pick mine up, if they are not I'd better order up a sliding joint.
As I run Cutless free wheel / locking hubs I'm not two worried but I should get it sorted.
Thanks,
Dave.

Dave,

I think that the M38 front prop shaft is a couple inches longer (several cm for you international units people ).

I know that Wes can probably answer this one in 5 seconds.

Anyone else know?

I doubt that there's any more than a 1/2" to 1" difference in length. The retracted length is the more important consideration. I believe there is a significant difference in the yoke that mounts to the transfer as regards angular clearance.

OK then lets look at this from another way.
Would the M38A1 shaft fit?,
Thanks,
Dave

The A1 front shaft is a tad longer but should still work if not exercising suspension to limits,

Thanks wes,
I'll go this weekend and see if the A1 chassis still has this part in place, though I'm not sure it will be any better and I'd probably be replacing like with like.
Guess I should just bite the bullet.
Thanks,
Dave

I'm using A1 shafts on my CJ2A with no problems, fine performance.

Just got back from my long round trip to my storage, the A1 shaft is worse than the one on the M38 (mush worse), there's a moral in this tale someplace.
Guess I'll order up a new one as the play seems to be in the sliding joint and I'm not sure the prop shaft shop can do anything about that,
Thanks,
Dave.

Dave,

What I did to my front prop shaft was to order a new splined end, grind off one spline (to fit into the yoke that has a spacer so that you can only put the yoke on one way). I then had the shop take off the old one, weld on the new one and then balance it.

You can get NOS slip yokes from most of the suppliers.

Yes, this process did take a while, but I don't have any deadlines to meet and most of you probably know how particular I am by now.

Worked like a charm.

Hi Ryan,
Thanks for the reply.
that all sounds more expensive than just buying a new front prop?
Out of interest have you ever considered how much more you would earn if the work you put into your jeep you put into chargeable work for others and then used that money to pay other/buy/ replace the parts? I have and it's bloody frieghtning!!
If you look at my gallery you'll see my rear axle that I rebuilt, in the end I think it cost about 3X what I bought a NOS complete axle with drums and everything.
As we say, 'There's nowt so expensive as experience.'
All the best,
Dave

Dave,

Those are wise words!

The prop shaft rebuild was about $150 US dollars (about 300 pounds?).

This was cheaper than buying a NOS M38A1 shaft, which is all that I could find. The M38A1 and the M38 shaft are interchangable, but have some difffernces.

If you are going for a working shaft without regaurds to appearance, they can be more easily found.