| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
 Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 6:48 pm Post subject: Carb Flooding |
 |
|
Some of you may have tried to help be back in March. My M38 is in the restoration process but I did have it running last fall and it ran great. After sitting all winter I tried to start it this spring and all it would do was fill the manifold with gas. After rebuilding the carb with a kit from midwest it did not help the problem. After several weeks, I got it to start but it ran poorly and only for a short time before it died. I gave up.
The restoration has progressed alot in the last two weeks. I would say it about 80-85% complete. I tried to start it today and guess what. It did not start and the manifold was again full of gas. I have an idea to try to see what is gong on with this carb. I am going to rig up a flexable hose and have my son crank the engine while I am holding carb it in my hand. I will than be able to see if its dumping fuel down the throat non stop.
Any other ideas? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
OKCM38CDN
Guest
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Have you checked the float adjustment... it should be 1/4"... also maybe som grit ot other got tin the carb keeping the float open...
Just a thought...
Hope this helps... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 8:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Float is 1/4". I used a pencil. I inverted to top of the carb and adjusted the float so that the pencil (1/4") would slide under the float just touching the pencil with the float resting on the spring in the float valve.
I have had this thing apart at least twenty times, its clean |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cmpman
Member
Joined: Dec 27, 2006
Posts: 47
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 6:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
It is a bit of a longshot, but could you have a porous casting? I had a brand new M38A1 carb one time, that would unexplainably flood. It turned out there was a leak in the casting of the upper plate so the fuel was able to bpass the float.
With all the trouble you are having with this carb, I am surprised you have not picked up another one. I would not want to miss a summer of driving over something as minor as a carb. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
| If I cannot get this resolved by the national convention, I plan on getting one there if not before. The problem is, I drove the jeep for two years before starting the resoration, and even had it running nice after the engine rebuild. Than I let the carb sit full of gas for a year and it has been all downhill from there. Two rebuild kits from Midwest, cleaning, cleaning, cleaning, and still a maniford full of gas. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wesk
Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When this happened back in March, I started questioning the integrity of the coil. Seems I would have fire and than not have fire. Well the problem has started again.
Before I tried to start it a few days ago, the first thing I did was check for fire and had it. I just checked again have have none. Coil is warm but not hot. Have 24.4 volts going in and .4 going out. Now, I am nothing more than a shad tree mec. I don't think it will create spark on .4 volts. I am going to let it cool down and see if the voltage increases.
As for the coil heating up, it rases a question. I understand the vent lines keep the coil cool and I do have the vent lines to the coil installed but I do not have the line open to the wipers as I have not windsheld on at this time. Should I plug this off or is it ok for now? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
usma41
Member
Joined: Oct 06, 2006
Posts: 194
Location: Zephyrhills, Florida
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Wes, I had the same problem and found that there are two type's of carbs for the m38. As I said before IF YOU HAVE THE WRONG GASKET KIT, THEN IT WILL DUMP FUEL INTO THE MANIFOLD! One has a larger throat opening on it. I wish I can explain this better but all I can say is Been there done that. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
I assume you are talking about the gasket between the carb and manifold.
I drove the jeep for a year before I had the engine rebuilt. It than ran well after the engine rebuild. After sitting all winter it would not run. I have rebuilt the carb twice with kits from Midwest. The original and both rebuild kits have the exact same gaskets.
I took the top part of the carb off and connected a four foot flexable fuel line to it and had my son crank the engine. I could than operate the float with by moving it up and down to see it it was a float issue. I did discover a small amount of fuel was passing with the float pushed up. I have corrected this problem ( I think ) but now have lost fire. I think I have a coil problem. I have fire and than loose fire. I am ordering a coil today and will see if this fixes the problem. I will report back after I install a new coil. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
wesk
Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
OKCM38CDN
Guest
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When purchasing a coil ask for the US model do not accept one of the reproduction ones from China... I got one and it blew up the first hour...
Buy one of the ones for the M-151... last forever... Cost more but saves lots of headaches...
Hope this helps... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
cknight
Member
Joined: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 63
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
| I already ordered one from Midwest. I hope John sends me a good one. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
Forum FAQ
Search
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
