My Saudi M38A1 is home!

Post by **wesk** » Tue Mar 14, 2017 9:44 am

Jan-Olaf,

I'll be 70 in July!

Be sure to use the very nicely done rebuild guides by Rick Stivers over on the Willys Tech Web Site. They also market a video.

http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90Rebuild ... ebuild.htm

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCa ... rCase.html

Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxD33appwAA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHJLO5NwRxQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-iqPsTlPLY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5nKIeSC0YA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzH5SWaeegQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVSqYQe69os

Advance Adapters Jeep Products Page:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/all_products.php

Advance Adapters Tech Guide Page:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vau ... ng-scouts/

Novak's T90 rebuild info & guide:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t ... 0-rebuild/

Novak's T90 rebuild guide:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/files/5014/ ... ebuild.pdf

Novak's transfer case info page:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t ... /model-18/

Novak's D18 rebuild guide:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t ... ild-guide/

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Mar 14, 2017 12:07 pm

Rick's T90 rebuild guide has a chapter at the end specifically for the shift
tower. Removal, inspection/repair, install.

There is what is called a Small Parts Kit that you will order to rebuild
your T90. It should include new poppet balls and springs. It's pretty
inexpensive and something you could order now.

Be advised that not every vendor supplies the same parts in their
version of the Small Parts Kit. In the one I got it did not have new springs
and the balls were smaller than my original balls. I reused the springs, which
were in decent shape, no rust, and cleaned up and reused my takeout balls.

If I have trouble down the road servicing these items will not require
removing anything but the pan and shift tower.

I printed off Rick's guides and read over them many times to
become familiar with the process.

Take care,

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:44 pm

Wes, thanks for all the Internet links, I have saved them on my computor and will pick them up later this year.

Brian, thanks for the good advice and suggestions, I have saved these too.

For the time being we are waiting for a proper spring, so I can take the doors and side curtain away and feel the fresh spring air in my nose while running this 55 years old lady. (I can tell you it was really cold to drive her this winter without a top.)

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:06 am

Hi guys, long time no hear.
Summer is long gone, I wouldn't even call it SUMMER this year in Sweden, where ever anyone spent their holiday, they all came to the same conclusion: Windy, wet and cold, that was the Swedish summer.

Saturday July 1 me and my Jeep went the 35 km to Nostalgia Festival in a neighbour Town called Ronneby. Weather was as usual, pooring rain, but fun anyway. Along with all american vintage cars, my A1 was popular and we got lots of questions. A girl (and her boyfriend) asked if she could hear the F-134 sound, which she liked a lot.

I have always had difficulties to get her started when she have been sitting for some days or weeks. I have had a thread about this on the knowledge forum, and I have had to be patient the 30 - 40 seconds it takes before she starts. During the summer I have been thinking about this, and also why there was an electric fuel pump in series with the fuel line and original fuel pump, when I took her over. It got to my mind that perhaps the fuel is flowing back to the tank of some reason. So I reinstalled the electric pump, and run that till I hear that pressure is coming up in the el-pump, and now I crank her, and YES she starts easely. Now I always have this new procedure when starting her cold.

It haven't been much riding the jeep during the summer, it's no fun running around in the rain, I mean, a jeep is a "sunny weather vehicle".

And about the restoration on the tranny/transfer I have decided to let my friend, the jeep parts supplier do the job. I am retired, but working two days a week, just to afford leaving the restoration to a person more skilled than me. So the plan is to rent a trailer one of these days and put the jeep on, and take her the 150 km to my friend in the outskirts of the town Hassleholm.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:58 am

Your problem starting after a long period of non-use is very common. During these long periods of non-use the fuel in the carb bowl evaporates. When you attempt to start it there is no fuel in the bowl. Pumping the gas pedal is no help because these carbs have vacuum operated accelerator pumps. The US Army tolerated this issue on the M38's but added the dash mounted primer pump. With the introduction of the M38A1 in mid 1952 the Army had Willys supply them with a fuel pump that had a built in priming lever on the center body of the fuel pump. This was operated by hand until you felt back pressure when the carb's bow was full. Eventually the older pumps were superseded by this late pump.

Your fuel pump is either an earlier M38 (L134) pump or it is a correct M38A1 (F134) pump with the hand priming lever missing.

This pump was introduced with the start of the M38A1 production mid 1952.

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 11:11 am

Hi Wes
I have noticed the facts about the mechanical primer lever in my own thread about difficult cold starts, but also in other threads about fuel pump restoration. I don't know whether my fuel pump is an original from the time she was exprted to Saudi, or if it was swapped during an engine restoration in 2001. I can't ask the former owner as he has passed away (my brother in law).

I have tryed to look closer on my pump but it seems to be just a plug where the lever should be situated. (Thanks for showing my photo).

Anyway, now I can easyly sit behind the wheel starting the el-pump for a short while, I don't need to lift the hood for either mechanical priming by the non-excisting primer lever or, as I did in the beginning of my ownership, prime her from a starter gas pressured can.

I suppose it would be hard to find facts about how these Saudi jeep were equipped regarding the fuel pump, I suppose we will never know.

Post by **wesk** » Mon Nov 13, 2017 12:23 pm

The only known differences of Saudi exported M38A1's from US Army M38A1's were the voltage system differences. That jeep of yours originally had a mechanical pump only with the hand primer handle. If the 4 digit number on your pump's mounting flange is 9810 or 4069 or 4260 or 3249 or 3209 or 2655 it was an original M38A1 hand prime equipped pump. If the 4 digit number is 9917 or 9585 or 2659 or 2147 it was an M38 pump without the handle.

My intent with my previous reply was to explain why your jeep was hard to start after it sat in storage and that that was a common issue.

Electric fuel pumps are normally added after the jeep leaves the military and were usually a band aid for worn out mechanical pumps or tank feed problems or restrictions. Most were plumbed in series with the mechanical pump. Your's, being plumbed parallel to the mechanical pump, indicates whomever installed it wanted to retain the mechanical pump and may have only installed for priming the carb.

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:21 pm

Wes
I'm getting a little confused about all the numbers you mention regarding the type of fuel pump. I tried today to find the numbers and the only number I can find is on this photo.

As I can read the numbers they are 153? but I can't see the last ones. If it is these numbers you refer to, they don't fit your numbers at all.
Do I look at the correct position for the numbers, I'm not sure about that???? If I'm wrong please advise me where to look.

On the top lid it says "AC" (which I Think means Autolite) and "Made in USA".

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:36 pm

Jan-Olof,
The number is stamped on the edge of the mounting flange where it bolts
to the spacer and engine. Left side, nearest the radiator.

Post by **wesk** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:36 pm

The number is on the mounting flange on every pump.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:42 pm

Speedy Wes!

I just found that photo and was getting ready to post!

Btw, my number was upside down.

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:49 pm

I try to look for it tomorrow. Is it possible to see the Numbers when the pump is in place?

Post by **wesk** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:55 pm

Only with a strong light and small mirror or a bore scope.

Just below the left mount bolt.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Wed Nov 15, 2017 4:03 pm

If you have a phone with a camera you may be able to
stick the phone in there and take a picture and then look at the photo.

Brinken · Post by **Brinken** » Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:27 am

Tried to use the camera in my mobile, as Brian indicated. Found a hose, probobly a oil-return hose covering the place where the numbers are.

I don't fancy taking the pump away just to find out if the pump is original or not. I will live with the uncertainty.........

Have a nice weekend.Here it is pooring rain again.