axle end play
- zeke57
- Active Member

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- Location: Salamanca,NY
axle end play
I finally acquired a dial indicator to set the rear axle end play on my a1 and after the initial measurement I have about .025 on each side. So now to get it into the correct range is it just a matter of tapping the bearing cone in some more?
- Ray101
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- Location: Forest Lake, MN
- Ray101
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- Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:00 pm
- Location: Forest Lake, MN
- Ray101
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- zeke57
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Yes I have been following the procedure outlined in the manual but I am wondering if I am supposed to drive the bearing and cone in as far as it will go which results in zero end play so I ended up backing the cone out which left me with .025 end play. Do not know if this is the way it should be done but I do not see another way to achieve end play.
- Ray101
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- Location: Forest Lake, MN
- Ray101
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- Location: Forest Lake, MN
- zeke57
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- Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:00 pm
- Location: Salamanca,NY
When I disassembled the axles each side had two shims so I would think if I reassembled everything the way it came apart I would end up with the correct amount of end play. So is the correct way to do this to reassemble both axles to the point where the oil slinger is installed and the six bolts are torqued down and then check the end play because right now I just have the d/s to the point where the six bolts are in and the p/s just has the axle and cone bearing installed.
- Ray101
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- zeke57
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- Ray101
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- 45auto
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From reading what is taking place and just to set a base line:
You should have some shims that are thin--like .005, .010., .025 that will fit over the rear bearing race. Then you have a rather thick retaining ring that will not fit over the bearing race which the brake backing plate mounts up against.
From reading your posts, you may be missing the retaining ring which keeps the bearing race in place. The manual gives you the correct way of setting end play--but to visualize what you are trying to accomplish--set the race against the bearing (zero lash) measure how far the race sticks out from the housing and add the amount of shims that make up that distance--plus .006 or however close you can come within specks with the shims you have.
Example: The race is .027 out from the housing. Using the above shims--you could use a .025 shim and a .005 shim which is .030 total. .030 minus .027 and you would be .003 over, which would give you .003 of end play which is in speck. As you can see, there are many different combinations that can come into play. There are other factors involved, so follow the recommendations in the manual, but the above is a simple break down of what you are trying to accomplish.
You may need to buy a set of shims to work with and make sure you have the retaining ring which holds everything in place.
You should have some shims that are thin--like .005, .010., .025 that will fit over the rear bearing race. Then you have a rather thick retaining ring that will not fit over the bearing race which the brake backing plate mounts up against.
From reading your posts, you may be missing the retaining ring which keeps the bearing race in place. The manual gives you the correct way of setting end play--but to visualize what you are trying to accomplish--set the race against the bearing (zero lash) measure how far the race sticks out from the housing and add the amount of shims that make up that distance--plus .006 or however close you can come within specks with the shims you have.
Example: The race is .027 out from the housing. Using the above shims--you could use a .025 shim and a .005 shim which is .030 total. .030 minus .027 and you would be .003 over, which would give you .003 of end play which is in speck. As you can see, there are many different combinations that can come into play. There are other factors involved, so follow the recommendations in the manual, but the above is a simple break down of what you are trying to accomplish.
You may need to buy a set of shims to work with and make sure you have the retaining ring which holds everything in place.
Harold W.
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
MVPA #6833
1945 GPW
1950 CJV-35/U
1951 M38 1952 M38
1962 USMC Contract M38A1
1953 Strick M100 1967 Johnson M416
1968 CJ5 4-Speed 1969 CJ5 V6
- zeke57
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- Ray101
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- Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:00 pm
- Location: Forest Lake, MN
- Ray101
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- Posts: 41
- Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:00 pm
- Location: Forest Lake, MN
I may have led you astray earlier, I think you do have to have bothe sides assembled to check end play. Also since it's hard for me to type out instructions I foud a you tube video you may want to watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ih1qw8B7yeY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ih1qw8B7yeY
1950 M38