OD to Blue to OD--Maybe going back to Blue?

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Z
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OD to Blue to OD--Maybe going back to Blue?

Post by Z »

Deciding on what color I'll take it to. Thinking back to blue.

Wes, did you do your frame in black?

Here's a link to the color layers on my hood.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _photo.php

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Z
-52 M38 (Ser# 61033)
-52 M38A1 (Ser # 10047), Engine MD-95388

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Zane,

I believe I have labeled your photo correctly. Looks like original paint was completely stripped in the field Military or prior civvy owner and repainted 3 times over a single 1st layer of gray primer.

Image
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Z
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Top Cowl

Post by Z »

Thank you for the thorough analysis Wes!

After reading your input, I was thinking that the hood is a common replacement item and paint layers could differ from the rest of the jeep. So today, I sanded a spot on the top cowl. Most seems consistent with the hood except it may show a hint of red oxide and maybe even more layers.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _photo.php
Z
-52 M38 (Ser# 61033)
-52 M38A1 (Ser # 10047), Engine MD-95388

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Zane, Your cowl sample looks more original to Willys paint process. No trace of any primer before the first two OD layers so those are likely the original Willys thinned bottom coat of OD2430 and finish of straight OD2430. The red oxide trace is extremely light an appears to have been used as an undercoat for the 3rd or 4th layer.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
Z
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Post by Z »

Thanks Wes. How many gallons of 24087 do you think it would take to cover everything (tub, frame, motor axles/wheels)? I would do this over Red Oxide primer.
Thanks!
Z
-52 M38 (Ser# 61033)
-52 M38A1 (Ser # 10047), Engine MD-95388

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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wesk
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Post by wesk »

Zane,
I believe AJP, RAPCO and Gillespie web sites have all those answers for you. I would plan on at least 2 gallons, 3 would be good insurance.

http://www.gillespiecoatings.com/Conten ... .ashx?ID=9

https://wilfreeman.wordpress.com/tag/gi ... -thinning/

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/g ... atio.2153/
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
ocwd
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Paint

Post by ocwd »

I got my paint from Rapco Parts. They sell spray cans too. I agree with Wes and maybe order 3 cans. I bought two cans about 10 years ago and I think they've sat too long. It's all goopy now. I'm going to order two more cans from Rapco. The Gillespie paint mixes well with xylene and sprays nicely. The nice thing about ordering 3 cans is that they will most likely be from the same batch and the color should match. I bought my spray gun from Harbor Freight. It works well.
jnissen
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Post by jnissen »

I ordered from Gillespie three different times (don't ask). The paint always matched between gallons. The only variable was in the amount of Xylene used to thin the paint. If you go aggressive with the Xylene then the paint will thin but also gloss more than desired.

Gillespie recommended a 5:1 ratio paint to Xylene. I tried it as low as 2:1 and 3:1 but didn't like the results. Stick with the higher ratio paint to Xylene and use the appropriate fluid tip in your gun. The spray through my 3M Accuspray (orange 1.4mm nozzle) was working well.

BTW - The PPS cup system that 3M has is hard to beat. I have small and large cups and this is so easy to clean up. I'll never go back to the old spray guns.
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