Project Salty

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Sun Nov 15, 2020 4:45 am

I ordered grade 8 hardware off the Internet a week ago, and half of the items showed up on time. The other bits were delayed until Monday which is with great annoyance for assembling the Dana 25 spindles.

The ujoint came in for my axle shaft. I bought a Spicer 5-260X which came with the correct c clips. I had to snip the plastic collars off the ujoint to allow for installation into the yokes, and allow for greasing while it is in the knuckle.

Another annoyance. The wheel cylinders didn’t come with the 1/4-20x3/8” hold down hardware. I am waiting till the box store opens so I can go get it.

The PostImage site I use to post pictures has been down for 18 hours so no photos to show the ujoint... I will update that later.

For today’s episode, I will finish this Dana 25 and move on to the Dana 44.

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Sun Nov 15, 2020 6:19 pm

Well... so trips to tractor supply today for grade 8 hardware. I somehow lost the bag of 3/8” bolts for the hub.

I rolled it back into my garage and put it on jackstands again. It’s heavy! I am waiting for the tie rod ends so I can link the knuckles together,

I had to make a trip to HF too for a better way to drive the bearing races into place. I was using brass punches earlier, but I guess I’ve got the cheep ones cause they were shattering into slivers.
A bearing race and seal driver for $30.00 took care of that quick.

Up next, fill the knuckles, fill the differential with fluid and add the tie rod ends,

Post by **Ryan_Miller** » Mon Nov 16, 2020 11:22 am

Your project is moving along nicely!

Small steps here and there and next thing you know you have completed a major step!

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Mon Nov 16, 2020 8:23 pm

Hey Coastie,
Very nice indeed!

But I feel obliged to point out that those "Bendix Joint" tags don't belong on the pumpkin cover. One each goes on the top of each knuckle joint seal. Pictures in the manual.......

There's a small gear ratio tag that belongs on a pumpkin cover bolt. It's stamped 43 over 8, and 43 divided by 8 equals 5.38 which is the axle gear ratio.........also in the manual.

Do you have a copy of the ubiquitous M38 Reference Guide? Maybe Santy Claus will bring you one!

Good luck!

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Mon Nov 16, 2020 8:56 pm

Good to know. This is where I took the tags off from. I cam move it still.

As for the book I have it, but it’s a detail in a sea of stuff I didn’t see.
Will look again.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:28 am

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Fri Nov 20, 2020 8:22 pm

moved the tag! thank you WESK for the information.

I am also filling the knuckles as i can. I have stood overnight duty twice this week and had a long engine overhaul project come to a close.
scoop of grease into the funnel before work, one after work.

put some dimples in the housing for the dana 44 pinion bearing race.
then used loctite 620

tomorrow hopefully it will be dry and hope the knuckle filling on the dana 25 is done. it should be very nice this weekend so hopefully I can push the axles out back to the jeep frame.

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Fri Nov 20, 2020 9:51 pm

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:58 am

RonD2 wrote:

the bearing race wouldn’t set otherwise. Machinist recommendations of doing what I did. To remove it, I’d need heat!

RonD2 · Post by **RonD2** » Sat Nov 21, 2020 5:19 pm

The

was for using a funnel to fill your knuckle joint with grease. Never saw that before!

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Sun Nov 22, 2020 5:55 pm

Was going to work on the Dana 44, by setting up the carrier,

But....

Fastenall isn’t open until tomorrow.

So I used today to do some floor pan fitting.

I used my HF engine hoist to raise the frame and body at the same time so I could raise the jackstands. I set everything back down but I needed room to lay under the Jeep and tack weld the hat Chanel to the f,or panel and attach it to the rear floor and side panel.

I started running out of daylight for the passenger side.

It is just clamped in place and I have fit,ent issues.
The hat Chanel doesn’t fit right. The floor panel is cut weird. The side panel doesn’t fit right so I trimmed a piece out that I wasn’t happy with and will work on this tomorrow.

CoastieReid · Post by **CoastieReid** » Mon Nov 23, 2020 4:45 pm

Spent half the day running around trying to get tools and materials for work tomorrow.
Ran by HF and got a new air punch flange tool. Mine I only used yesterday and it was already broken. The new one worked like a charm.

Looking into a replacement fuel tank. Who knows what this was for...not for a M38. It also has some sort of undercoating on it, and a small filler.

They seem pretty proud of the aftermarket one by the price.

Spent a few hours fitting the passenger floor panel and hat Chanel.

I test fit my tool box, it seems to fit pretty well, but not sure yet since I want to put the passenger rear wheel together first. Need seat pivots as well so I can see how to mount the seat too.

I really have no idea what the trans tunnel should look like, but a basic idea. I will build one of those too since my floor was missing it.

4x4M38 · Post by **4x4M38** » Tue Nov 24, 2020 7:26 am

You might ask around. Being raised, the tunnel area doesn’t suffer as much from corrosion and you might find someone with a scrap tub with that part in decent shape. Definitely give Matt at QTM parts a call. He scraps a lot of stuff and has random bits for sale often.

Post by **wesk** » Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:19 pm

This NOS floor assy will help put the hump in perspective.

rgmutchler · Post by **rgmutchler** » Tue Nov 24, 2020 1:27 pm

Red,
I replaced my whole floorboard and firewall with an NOS panel. These are still available and in addition there is an NOS front floor board that ends where the fire wall is spot welded to it after the floor turns up to the firewall. I know Mullins has both pieces.
But you seem to be beyond that.
I have the front floor and firewall that I removed from my body. The transmission hump that you need is still usable. If you are interested PM me and I can cut out the portion you need. Your cost will be shipping.